Does anyone know if Honda has an official recommendation of where exactly the lifting points for floor jack (front and rear) would be? For other cars I had in the past, usually it is Front crossmember and Rear differential. I was able to find the technical service manual for other cars easily online, but I guess this Ridgeline is too new.... can't find anything. I read several threads on this forum about this topic on Gen1 but not yet for Gen2. I also read another forum on Ford, some said the newer trucks do not recommend putting floor jack on Rear differential anymore. Hmmm... interesting.. Any comments or recommendation are welcome.
Floor jack lifting point for Gen2
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- 2018 jack points
riniboo
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I was looking for reviews of this jack, and I found this facebook page:
https://www.facebook.com/GetUJacked/
I would guess that you are required to use their jack stands to fit in between the wheels of the jack. Cool idea, though; it just looks expensive.
Edit: Maybe not. Here is what they have posted:
Yeah, a 2x6 or 2x10 under the wheels should do the job. Good point.
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They work great. Easiest to lift vehicle I've worked on.
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I'd be curious to see how well these work. Could just buy 4 of them. Although their price makes me worry they seem underpriced...
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/powerbuilt-3-ton-all-in-one-jack
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/powerbuilt-3-ton-all-in-one-jack
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I have a brand new one of those sitting in my garage and never used. It won't fit under my G1 RL.
Those were like $20 at HD about a month ago. Seen them, Didn't think I would use them, passed on the deal, now I kinda wished I had bought at least 2 to see how well they would work with RL
I use floor jacks to lift from the central lifting points, then slide jackstands under the pinch welds for secure support when I need to work on my RL (G1). I have 4 6T jackstands that I use. While I don't need 6T for the weight, I like the fact that I don't need to extend them more than halfway out of the main housing for my normal maintenance routines on my RL and Pilot. The smaller cars only need them at the bottom setting.
Jackstands I've bought and used. The ones on the right (red) are the ones I use now. I gave the other ones away because they needed to be extended too far for my comfort zone to get my RL off the ground to clear the tires.
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My G1 RL on the jackstands (saddle height about 19 inches iirc).
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Jackstands I've bought and used. The ones on the right (red) are the ones I use now. I gave the other ones away because they needed to be extended too far for my comfort zone to get my RL off the ground to clear the tires.
My G1 RL on the jackstands (saddle height about 19 inches iirc).
you got me thinking about upgrading my jack stands too.:grin:
Kind of sad if you ask me!!
I have a normal Craftsman floor jack that has served me well for years. Does anyone put a slotted plastic or rubber piece on top of the floor jack to avoid crushing the pinch welds? If so, what would be the best solution for the top of my floor jack. My jack looks like this one, but actually has a circular rubber piece on top of the lifting plate. I guess Sears is "cheaping" out.
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Get a hockey puck. It typically fits in the jack cradle just right. Use a grinder or something to cut a groove in the puck. The puck material is plenty tough but has enough give to help protect the jacking areas.
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I just used floor jacks on the center jack points and places at the side jack points. I can confirm that the center jack points work perfectly with floor jacks with no pads or adapters...zero damage not even a scratch. I placed jack stands at all 4 side jack points on the inside of and against the pinch-welds and let the truck rest on the jack stands with zero issues or damage.
Rotating the tires was quick and simple
Rotating the tires was quick and simple
Sides or rear.
You blocked the front lift point with the skid plate.
Alternative is to cut out the space for the jack. A member here did that with his no-lo skid plate.
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