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Febran, Which AUX cable did you use to connect the steering control buttons. Did ou buy an AUX cable or did your XAV-AX100 come with it.
Thanks
I just bought one from dollar store, cut it in half and used it. :grin: It didn't come with AX100.
 

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Are you doing the upgrade from the stock radio to the model with the GPS (high-end model)? I want to do the same but wonder if the factory harness on the 2017 RTL is the same harness used on the model with the GPS; if so there should be multiple spare plugs that could be connected to the GPS radio and it should work?
 
Fskywaker.. I wanted to swap out the RTL head unit for the RTL-T head unit, but changed my mind. I wanted to be able to get into the settings you just can't from the base unit. I don't want to end up spending more than if I had purchased a decent aftermarket unit.


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Thinking of doing this for my Sport using an Alpine ILX-107. Don't need the extra USB port or nicer amp as shown in this original install. Just want wireless CarPlay/Android auto and want to retain factory backup camera, usb in console, steering wheel controls, and ideally factory mic.

Is merging/making your own Metra connector still the only option or is this "replace radio" combo kit Metra Online a more complete solution?

It appears to combine a number of things that the OP described having to wire themselves. It looks like it combines the AX-CAM6V for camera, the RCA connectors, and something that looks the same or similar to the 70-1729 pin connector but wondering if the included one now has the right number of pins for the RL?

To do this install I think I'd need:

• Metra-95-7811B Matte Black Double DIN Stereo Dash Kit
• Metra AX-HON24RVC-6V - appears to include the Metra AX-CAM6V 12V to 6V Camera Stepdown and harness and RCA jacks
• Metra ASWC1 Steering Wheel Control Interface
• Metra 40-HD11 HONDA ANTENNA ADAPTER CABLE - still need this
• PAC USB-TY1 Toyota/Lexus OEM USB Port Retention Cable - still need this
• SPDT switch - need this for 3 way camera
• Connectors: MX34024UF1 / MX34016UF1 / MX34012UF1 (Original is MX34R08HF4T) - www.mouser.com

But would not need need:
• 2x Metra 70-1729 - it appears that this is also in the AX-HON24RVC-6V kit ?
• Metra AX-CAM6V 12V to 6V Camera Stepdown - appears to come as part of the AX-HON24RVC-6V kit?

I'm not a pro so have been looking for a Seattle area installer who can do this job without hacking the wiring up, but none of them have mentioned needing to construct their own part like this which makes me wonder if they either don't realize they will loose the steering wheel controls, usb in console, etc. I don't want to be their guinea pig.
 
hello guys, i noticed multiples of you installed a 3 way switch for the camera angles when retaining the factory backup camera on an aftermarket screen. I'm just wondering which wires you attach to the switch. and do they get 12v power, 6v power, ground or what? ive installed everything completely on a customers 2018 ridgeline, even retaining the factory sub but i cant decipher the 3 way camera angle yet. thanks in advance
 
After operating this for a few months I wanted to pass along a few things.

First, my Axxess unit doesn't operate when it gets hot. When my truck sits out in the Texas sun I lose the steering wheel controls repeatedly. I'm going to see if I can re-position the module to be lower down and perhaps nearer to A/C air to fix this.

Second, sometimes (rarely) my Kenwood head unit doesn't output audio at all. If I cycle the power (turn off/on the truck) it comes back. So far this has happened 3x in the last 12 months. I think it is probably a firmware/software issue with the head unit but it might be in the hardware? This is annoying but not game breaking.

Scott
 
After operating this for a few months I wanted to pass along a few things.

First, my Axxess unit doesn't operate when it gets hot. When my truck sits out in the Texas sun I lose the steering wheel controls repeatedly. I'm going to see if I can re-position the module to be lower down and perhaps nearer to A/C air to fix this.

Second, sometimes (rarely) my Kenwood head unit doesn't output audio at all. If I cycle the power (turn off/on the truck) it comes back. So far this has happened 3x in the last 12 months. I think it is probably a firmware/software issue with the head unit but it might be in the hardware? This is annoying but not game breaking.

Scott
I make car electronics for living.

Difference –Aftermarket to OEM :
OEM all electronics is designed and tested to work from -40 to +85 deg Celsius.
It is so called automotive temperature range.

Aftermarket - maybe some more serious company develop their units under automotive requirements, but generally no one know this.

Just simple example – same electrolytic capacitor but one time covering automotive
Qualification AEC-Q200 standard and same one but commercial grade – first one is around 2 times more expensive.
 
R2R,

I'm a new member and was wondering if you were successful on your planned install of the Alpine ILX head unit. I'm looking at basically the same thing on my 2018 RTL, with the exception of using a Pioneer AVH-W4400NEX head. Crutchfield seems to have all the necessary install harnesses, but I'm concerned that the camera and the USB will require extra tinkering based on some of the posts on the ROC. What was your end result? Any issues?

-Rat
 
I make car electronics for living.

Difference –Aftermarket to OEM :
OEM all electronics is designed and tested to work from -40 to +85 deg Celsius.
It is so called automotive temperature range.

Aftermarket - maybe some more serious company develop their units under automotive requirements, but generally no one know this.

Just simple example – same electrolytic capacitor but one time covering automotive
Qualification AEC-Q200 standard and same one but commercial grade – first one is around 2 times more expensive.
Oh yeah, I make commercial electronics for a living and we are always respectful of the work you and the other automotive engineers have to do to make things for cars. From specialized components (the caps mentioned are a great example) to ASIC operating modes to FW behavoir to high specialized enclosures, the automotive world certainly has its unique requirements!

I work with some suppliers who also supply automotive and how they take a commercial product (like a USB chip) and make it work in automotive is fascinating.
 
Thinking of doing this for my Sport using an Alpine ILX-107. Don't need the extra USB port or nicer amp as shown in this original install. Just want wireless CarPlay/Android auto and want to retain factory backup camera, usb in console, steering wheel controls, and ideally factory mic.

Is merging/making your own Metra connector still the only option or is this "replace radio" combo kit Metra Online a more complete solution?

It appears to combine a number of things that the OP described having to wire themselves. It looks like it combines the AX-CAM6V for camera, the RCA connectors, and something that looks the same or similar to the 70-1729 pin connector but wondering if the included one now has the right number of pins for the RL?

To do this install I think I'd need:

• Metra-95-7811B Matte Black Double DIN Stereo Dash Kit
• Metra AX-HON24RVC-6V - appears to include the Metra AX-CAM6V 12V to 6V Camera Stepdown and harness and RCA jacks
• Metra ASWC1 Steering Wheel Control Interface
• Metra 40-HD11 HONDA ANTENNA ADAPTER CABLE - still need this
• PAC USB-TY1 Toyota/Lexus OEM USB Port Retention Cable - still need this
• SPDT switch - need this for 3 way camera
• Connectors: MX34024UF1 / MX34016UF1 / MX34012UF1 (Original is MX34R08HF4T) - www.mouser.com

But would not need need:
• 2x Metra 70-1729 - it appears that this is also in the AX-HON24RVC-6V kit ?
• Metra AX-CAM6V 12V to 6V Camera Stepdown - appears to come as part of the AX-HON24RVC-6V kit?

I'm not a pro so have been looking for a Seattle area installer who can do this job without hacking the wiring up, but none of them have mentioned needing to construct their own part like this which makes me wonder if they either don't realize they will loose the steering wheel controls, usb in console, etc. I don't want to be their guinea pig.

@RoadToRidge: Did you ever complete your install? I'm planning to replace the 5" LCD "color display" unit in my 2019 RTL but would like to solidify my plan before purchasing parts and wiring. Thanks!
 
Been reading this thread but a bit confused. I have contacted ATOTO any they told me that no interface is needed to get steering wheel controls working with their A6 head unit because the 2019 RL RTL has a resistance based SWC. The ATOTO A6 already has 2 wires for this and can hook up directly - no interface needed.

Can anybody confirm that the RL SWC are in fact resistive?
 
Been reading this thread but a bit confused. I have contacted ATOTO any they told me that no interface is needed to get steering wheel controls working with their A6 head unit because the 2019 RL RTL has a resistance based SWC. The ATOTO A6 already has 2 wires for this and can hook up directly - no interface needed.

Can anybody confirm that the RL SWC are in fact resistive?
i just hooked up a aswc 1 and went through hell on my 19 RL AWD it is resistive. Had to wire the sw adapter up diff than what everyone mentioned. The B Can Hi and Lo would not work by themselves.HFT isnt working but at this point I dont care, i use a bt headset and BT in the HU gets people into trouble all the time..... hate the radio hijacking phone calls
Hope this helps
 
hello guys, i noticed multiples of you installed a 3 way switch for the camera angles when retaining the factory backup camera on an aftermarket screen. I'm just wondering which wires you attach to the switch. and do they get 12v power, 6v power, ground or what? ive installed everything completely on a customers 2018 ridgeline, even retaining the factory sub but i cant decipher the 3 way camera angle yet. thanks in advance
This is an old post, but no one answered and I can't seem to locate an answer. Sooo...here's a bump.
 
Thanks Techinvestigator. I think I found the wiring pin-out in one of the diagrams posted by Silgen. For anyone else that is looking, it looks to be a three connection/three way SPDT switch. I just ordered this from Amazon...

397133

Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TQMU5C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The posts are wired as follows:
Post 1 is connected to connector C pin 18 (Bit 1)
Post 2 is connected to connector A pin 1 (GND)
Post 3 is connected to connector C pin 5 (Bit 0)
 
Thanks to y'all for this thread! I was able to get a Dasaita 10.2 unit installed and fully functional. I did not need a ASWC1, but did need to connect the "Audio Remote Ground" wire to the radio ground wire to get the steering controls working.
 
Thanks to y'all for this thread! I was able to get a Dasaita 10.2 unit installed and fully functional. I did not need a ASWC1, but did need to connect the "Audio Remote Ground" wire to the radio ground wire to get the steering controls working.
Hey chrwei,

You happen to have any pictures or more info?

I have a pioneer, and i'd love a bigger floating screen.

thanks!

Ev
 
I didn't take of the install, this one is right after
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one change I made was to get a 15ft SMA extension cable to relocate the wifi antenna.. WIFI reception outside the car was terrible, I tried a better antenna and it wasn't enough. I moved it so the antenna pokes out of the headliner up behind the mirror. hard part was routing the cable up the pillar and behind the airbag, but otherwise a coat hanger to fish it through the dash. I could have lived without that, just using a wifi repeater when needed, but i got a wifi camera for the back my travel trailer and it just didn't get enough signal.

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overall I'm pretty happy with it. I actually use the navigation app a lot, but did require messing with way to many settings, and ended up turning voice off entirely as it was announcing seeming random things in a way I couldn't understand what it was saying. android auto can be flakey as well, manually loading the z-link app usually kicks it on, but a couple times I've had to reboot the unit.

what i don't like, and it just seems to be an android thing, is the side-by-side keeps the apps in landscape view and adds scrollbars. nearly useless. i was hoping to have torque and andriod auto side by side, but it just makes both unusable.

you'll also want to test SD card insertion before installing. I had to remove the face to extract one and file the hole a little bigger. wasn't hard, just annoying to have to take apart the dash to do it.
 
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