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speedlever

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Say what? Yeah, A123. I added the -3 to the A12 service that was called out with <5% remaining on the MM (for the last 300+ miles.)
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All fluid changes were done with the truck on the ground. I only lifted it to rotate the tires, inspect the brakes, take pics, and torque the fill bolt on the transfer assembly. My 1/2 inch torque wrench was too long to torque that bolt with the truck on the ground (but I don't consider it critical anyway.)

Oil drain:
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Oil filter change (inside right front wheel well... I hand tighten and hand loosen only):
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Transmission fluid drain:
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Transfer assembly gear oil drain and fill:
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Up on jackstands for tire rotation, brake wear check, torque transfer assembly fill bolt, and pics:
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Crush washers and torque values:
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=403745&postcount=15
I didn't replace any crush washers *except* for the oil drain.

Transmission mag plug at 29,616 miles on 2011.06.02 at the 5th oil change:
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For comparision, here's the transmission mag plug when first changed at 17,430 miles on 2010.04.22 (at the 3rd oil change):
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I expect the tranny mag plug to be pretty clean by the next change. I still have 4+ qts of ATF-Z1 to cycle through before I get to DW-1.

The transfer assembly hypoid gear oil was still nice and golden colored. I replaced it with Mobil 1 LS1 75w-90 because I couldn't find my usual Valvoline 80w-90 hypoid gear oil. Nor could I find a pump for the quart sized bottles at either of the two autoparts stores I checked. Where do you guys find the pumps for the hypoid gear oil bottles?

I didn't change the air filter as it was replaced at the 17,xxx mark. Also, when I replaced the cabin filter, I accidentally pulled the damper apart (forgot about the damper rod connection and didn't have enough light inside to see it.) I found it easily went back together and seems to work normally. The old cabin filter didn't appear very dirty.
 
Speedlever, you are starting to make me worry about you. Your intentions are good and you know what to do but the applications are all wrong. You change the oil yourself so where is your Fumoto valve? I put mine on from the very first oil change in 2005 and all I have ever had to do since is attach a hose to the nipple and turn a little valve spring - no torque wrench, no crush washers, no spills or mess and most important of all, no chance of messing up threads on an expensive pan. If you change the oil yourself you need to get one.

And what is that black filter? I don't know what it is but I know what it is not. It is NOT an A-01. You better start shaping up speedlever or people are going to be wondering about you!!!
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Speedlever, you are starting to make me worry about you. Your intentions are good and you know what to do but the applications are all wrong. You change the oil yourself so where is your Fumoto valve? I put mine on from the very first oil change in 2005 and all I have ever had to do since is attach a hose to the nipple and turn a little valve spring - no torque wrench, no crush washers, no spills or mess and most important of all, no chance of messing up threads on an expensive pan. If you change the oil yourself you need to get one.

And what is that black filter? I don't know what it is but I know what it is not. It is NOT an A-01. You better start shaping up speedlever or people are going to be wondering about you!!!
You know? I really oughta consider that Fumoto valve again. I'd forgotten about it. ;)

Black filter = very secret filtering device. If I tell you, I'll have to, you know...


...........and I know why his cabin filter is not very dirty! He doesn't take that 08 RL out of the garage.
Another secret.... Billet Silver Metallic paint! (always looks freshly washed... until you get up close.) :act027:
 
Discussion starter · #6 · (Edited)
Thanks for the marine supply suggestion. I also ordered 2 Fumoto F106n valves and 2 adl106 adapters today... one for the RL and one for the Pilot.
 
Hey Speed,

What's the purpose of the damper lever by the cabin filter?
 
Speedlever, you are starting to make me worry about you. Your intentions are good and you know what to do but the applications are all wrong. You change the oil yourself so where is your Fumoto valve? I put mine on from the very first oil change in 2005 and all I have ever had to do since is attach a hose to the nipple and turn a little valve spring - no torque wrench, no crush washers, no spills or mess and most important of all, no chance of messing up threads on an expensive pan. If you change the oil yourself you need to get one.

And what is that black filter? I don't know what it is but I know what it is not. It is NOT an A-01. You better start shaping up speedlever or people are going to be wondering about you!!!


I'll be putting on my Fumoto at the next oil change. I'm at 20% and almost excited to wear down to <%5........another toy to install!! I may spray paint my Mobile 1 filter gloss black like Speed did......
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Hey Speed,

What's the purpose of the damper lever by the cabin filter?
AFAIK, it just serves to dampen the opening of the glove box. Take it off and see how the GB operates with and without it. (you need to take the lever off the GB mount point to replace the cabin filter.)
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Has anyone considered using a Fumoto valve (if it fits?) on the tranny drain? That might be pretty convenient and also help with containing the fluid when it gushes out... especially when doing the conversion to DW-1.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
You are correct that 32psi is the factory recommended tire pressure. However, the ROC suggested pressure is 35 to 40 psi or so. I normally run my tires at 36 psi, but haven't adjusted them since warm weather has arrived. I thought I'd run them at 38 psi for a while and see if I like it or can tell a difference in comfort or mpg.

Good catch.
 
AFAIK, it just serves to dampen the opening of the glove box. Take it off and see how the GB operates with and without it. (you need to take the lever off the GB mount point to replace the cabin filter.)


Ahhh. It didn't come out when I did mine, but when u helped two friends with the swap I noticed that. I didn't think it was critical and forgot about it. It definitely made a difference when I reconnected it. Thanks again.
 
Why 38 psi ?........must ride and handle like poo ! Isn't 32 psi recommended
I run at 35-36 and can not notice any difference in the ride. If I run at 32 it will lose air eventually, and be underinflated per Honda's recommendation. If I run a couple of lbs or so higher, I might get a bit more tire life, better handling, and less likely to ever be underinflated (unless I never check it).

Those are great pics for the unitiated, speedy! You have a system and it works. Being retired, my RL is a hanger queen a good part of the time, I don't really drive it a lot. But savor it every time I take it out. When the time comes I will use syn in the transfer assembly too. It is the only lubricant that does not have a Honda only recommendation.
 
Has anyone considered using a Fumoto valve (if it fits?) on the tranny drain? That might be pretty convenient and also help with containing the fluid when it gushes out... especially when doing the conversion to DW-1.
Looks like it is only for oil pans, would it take some pipe adapters to make it work?
 
Way to go Speed. Great info for the new guy...... And you moved me I think I'll order a Fumoto valve too.
I just finished the last transmission drain and fill. But my mileage dropped back down? Wonder about that.
I run my tires on the high side too. My 2006 I kept about 3 - 5 psi more and regular rotation and they wore very evenly. My brother in law ran his at recommended psi and the edges wore out, it wasn't real bad but he did have to get tires when I turned mine in (end of lease) with about 48k and plenty of tread they didn't dink me for tires.
I would stray away from a Fumoto valve on the transmission.
 
Discussion starter · #17 · (Edited)
Great Clean Pics! And List of details of what you did. I used one of those black oil filters in my last oil change, my oil stays cleaner I am at 60% now and if it stays as clean or slightly dirtier closer to 100% I may not change 2 filters in the cycle like I normally do. I also noticed a smoother running engine and ride and better gas mileage, who knows maybe the summer gas or the DW1, but I will try to keep using the Gold filters, I said gold because the Supertech walmart filters I used are black also, ha ha. I will use what makes it run smoother. I also used M1 oil.
:act035:
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Al,

I don't worry too much about the oil turning dark. That tells me it's doing its job. If it stays clean looking, then I worry... unless of course, I doubled up on my filter changes like you do. You must have one mint RL in your garage. ;)

I have never been able to tell any difference in mpg or how an engine runs after doing a fresh fluid change. But I'm generally clueless anyway. :D
 
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