Most likely your turn signal/hazard relay gave up.

Under the dash fuse box, i believe right upper relay.

 

I had a similar issue with my 2006. Left/Driver's side direction indicators would not function. I didn't check if they flashed when locking the vehicle, however they would not flash with either the stalk switch or the hazard switch. After reading some posts on this thread I decided to purchase a new relay - Part No. 38300-SDB-A03.
To change the relay is a bit fiddly but here's how I did it.
First, depress the parking brake. Take a pair of slip-joint pipe pliers and grasp the relay. With a small, flat bladed screwdriver, insert the blade behind the lug tab. while gently prying the tab away from the body of the relay, gently ease the relay away from the tab with the pliers, until the tab will rest on the lug when released. Without moving the relay, insert the screwdriver behind the tab on the other side and gently pry open, at the same time pull the relay straight out without allowing the first tab to engage. It needs a fair bit of force to pull the relay out and you will probably crush the relay case a little in the process, however, it's junk, so who cares. Inserting the replacement is as simple as plugging it in. Hope this helps someone. Be well.

 

what they said........ could be the stalk switch, but not that likely. Do parking lights work?

 

Yes, parking lights work. Hazard lights work. But when the stalk goes down, nothing happens. Doesn't click. Doesn't flash on the dash. And turn indicators don't indicate. Push the stalk up and the right side indicators work fine.

If it was a fuse or a relay, wouldn't it affect both sides? Not just the left?

I stopped at an auto parts store to try and find a fuse or a relay, and when the guy heard that one side works and the other doesn't he said that it HAS to be the switch or a wiring issue, and not a fuse or relay.

Any comments on that? And if you still think it's a relay, what would it be labeled as? There's nothing in the fuse boxes labeled for turn indicators. There's one for hazard lights, but again, my hazard lights work fine.

Ok, I found an old post from someone who was having the same problem (Left turn signal doesn't work, right one does) and it was resolved by replacing the relay. So I guess that one side can still work with a bad relay. I also found in that thread where someone posted a diagram showing where the "Turn signal/Hazard relay" is located (and yes, Dimson, it is on the upper right of the interior box). So I'm going to replace that relay and see what happens. Wish I would have gone ahead and bought it while I was at Autozone before. It think it was about $17. I'll let you know soon.

So replacing the relay fixed the problem. That's the good news. Here's what happened.

After buying the relay at an auto parts store for about $20, I brought it home thinking I could just pop the old one out and put the new one in myself. I was able to pretty easily identify the relay, although I could barely see it in the top right corner of the interior fuse/relay box. I could get my fingers on it, barely, but could not get it to budge. After trying everything I could think of, I decided to call my independent mechanic and see if he would do it for me. He said he had a vehicle in his bay, but if I wanted to pull up outside he would come out and take care of it for me. He figured it would just take a minute. Well, about 30 minutes and a bunch of curse words later, he gave up and said if I wanted to bring it back the next day and drop it off, he would tear it apart and get it out. So I decided to go ahead and take it to the dealer the next day, instead. Because I still wasn't certain that the relay would fix the problem, and if it didn't, I'd feel better having the dealership figure it out and have on hand whatever parts might be needed.

So I called the next morning and got a same day appointment. I explained everything to the service writer, including the fact that I had bought the relay at an auto parts store, hoping it would fix the problem, but couldn't get the old one out. To his credit, he went out to my truck and tried to do it himself, but gave up in about 10 minutes with scrapes and blood on his hands. So he put it into service and told me it should take about an hour. An hour and half later, they were done and told me that the new relay fixed the problem. They charged me $68.74, mostly for labor. I paid it and was somewhat happy to do so.

The end. I hope.

 

 

I have to wonder why that relay was so difficult to remove? It should have been a pretty easy task. I hope.

I removed most if not all the relays under the hood when I was troubleshooting my HVAC/radiator fan issue. They come right out using a pair of needle nosed pliers.

 

It's the location, primarily. This one is inside the cabin, on the driver side left side. There's a cover that easily pulls away, but it only really reveals the fuses on the bottom. The relays are up higher, and hard to get to. When you try to get a hand in there the parking break is in the way. The service writer was guessing that they would have to remove the parking break to get to it, but I never heard for sure if that's what they did. He quoted me $65 labor "if they have to do that," and then that's what he charged me. I was just happy the turn signals were working so I didn't mind paying it. Could have been something a lot more expensive.

 

I changed my flasher relay out today. As you stated, it's really hard to work with but after a lot of trying I finally hit on a solution. As with other relays, this on is held in place by tabs on the relay that fit into cutouts in ears on the mounting plate. (Probably not the proper terms, or maybe I have the names backwards) You have to hold both of these ears open while pulling out the relay. Seeing as how you only have room to get one hand in at a time it's a challenge. So, here's what I finally came up with. I cut two strips of flat plastic about 1/4 to 3/16 inch wide and perhaps 2 inches long out of a plastic decorative car tag, something not too thick but rather stout. I then pried open the ears with a long thin screw driver one at a time and slipped a strip between the ear and tab. I had to feel my way through the process in the back but was able to use a small mirror to see if it was in place. With these in place I was able to grab hold of the relay with a pare of channel lock pliers and pull it out. One tricky part was getting the plastic strips to stay in place while I grabbed the relay. The new one popped in place with no problem.

 

Sorry to zombify this thread, but I'm currently having this same issue, except I changed the relay already. I have an 06 Ridgeline RT, and was stopped a few weeks back because a front turn signal was out.

I've had the truck since it was new, and have had to replace most of the lights over that time at least once, and decided I was ready to try something new to not have to deal with pulling the fender well out just to get to the front turn signals after this swap. As a result, I decided to swap to LED lights, which I completed swapping the rear lights a couple weeks ago. I then purchased a new relay to resolve the fast flash issue caused by the difference in power consumption of the new lights, and spent about an hour this past Sunday replacing the module. (I was lucky to come out of it with only a few minor cuts and scrapes, and only a passing irritation at the placement). With the new relay in place, my turn signals again flashed like they were supposed to.
I was originally waiting to swap the front lights because A) you have to pull the fender wells to get to them, and B) my headlight assemblies are in bad shape, and I've got a replacement set that I've been working up the energy to pull the front bumper off to replace, so I figured if I might as well kill two birds with one stone. Instead I decided I wasn't ready for the headlight replacement undertaking, so I restored the headlights and went ahead and swapped the lights. I thought all was well because I regularly checked my work with the hazard lights, which after some fighting with the new bulb fitting into the socket work perfectly... Unfortunately I was overconfident and did not check the turn signals themselves. Now my left signal is fast flashing in cab, but the lights themselves are barely flashing at all.

Is it possible the relay has gone bad in less than a month?

 

Sorry to zombify this thread, but I'm currently having this same issue, except I changed the relay already. I have an 06 Ridgeline RT, and was stopped a few weeks back because a front turn signal was out.

I've had the truck since it was new, and have had to replace most of the lights over that time at least once, and decided I was ready to try something new to not have to deal with pulling the fender well out just to get to the front turn signals after this swap. As a result, I decided to swap to LED lights, which I completed swapping the rear lights a couple weeks ago. I then purchased a new relay to resolve the fast flash issue caused by the difference in power consumption of the new lights, and spent about an hour this past Sunday replacing the module. (I was lucky to come out of it with only a few minor cuts and scrapes, and only a passing irritation at the placement). With the new relay in place, my turn signals again flashed like they were supposed to.
I was originally waiting to swap the front lights because A) you have to pull the fender wells to get to them, and B) my headlight assemblies are in bad shape, and I've got a replacement set that I've been working up the energy to pull the front bumper off to replace, so I figured if I might as well kill two birds with one stone. Instead I decided I wasn't ready for the headlight replacement undertaking, so I restored the headlights and went ahead and swapped the lights. I thought all was well because I regularly checked my work with the hazard lights, which after some fighting with the new bulb fitting into the socket work perfectly... Unfortunately I was overconfident and did not check the turn signals themselves. Now my left signal is fast flashing in cab, but the lights themselves are barely flashing at all.

Is it possible the relay has gone bad in less than a month?

I am very thankful I located this thread. My left turn signal stopped working and I removed the turn signal, thinking that it was bad, I did not see anything wrong with it, visual inspection only. I decided to search again online to find other possible causes and I found this thread. Thanks to all who have made any suggestion to resolve this issue. Now I hope I can put it back together without having any extra parts I cannot figure out where they go.LOL

 

As you stated, fast flashing is caused by low current draw... one bulb being out, changing to LED, etc. A light being dim sounds like a bad connection. Probably ground. Re-seat the bulb. Also, remember most LED bulb are polarity dependent (+/-) so will work one way, but not the other. You should be able to access the front lights by pulling only a couple of fasteners on the wheel liner. Pull it out of the was and reach inside. You shouldn't have to pull more than a couple of fasteners.

 

Thanks. That's pretty much what I was expecting, since the front bulbs didn't want to go in in the first place. After some reseating, and replacing of blown fuses, I learned that the guide I used for proper bulb replacements referenced the wrong bulb (7444) for the front. Once I replaced with the proper bulb (3157), and of course the fuses, all seemed to be working.

I now noticed that when I turn my headlights on the front signals hyper flash, and the rear signals barely light at all, but with the headlights off, everything works perfectly. Guess it's time to check the ground wires, and recheck the rear bulbs.

 

My relay was replaced a couple months back by my Honda dealer because I could not pull it out myself. One side, I forget which, was making noises like it was shorting out electrically. That fixed it.

I think it just went blink blink too many times. I'm anal about using my turn signals. Yep, I even use them in parking lots.

 

I wish I saw this post earlier! I just replaced my turn signal / flasher relay the other day (only to find out it was a blown fuse from bad trailer wires). I ended up just getting rough with it, and prying it from one side to the other until it got free of the tabs. Probably not the best strategy, but it worked and I didn't break anything. LOL I def. would have used the temporary plastic shims to slide between the tabs and posts had I read this thread before.

 

Thanks to everyone that has posted to this thread. It was exactly my problem and the tips about the tabs and the emergency break are spot on. I went ahead and made a video of my repair. Enjoy: