If you say all those lights on something else is wrong.

 

I haven't had that issue and hope that I never will, if you have a blown fuse and a bunch of lights going on, I would think there might be another problem, take it to your dealer.

 

After reading the manual in the morning light, the VSA system indicator lights come on with the ABS light. It has to be a problem with the ABS system - hopefully this explains why I still have to do the shift-lock override with the transmission. The brake system indicator light is NOT on though, just the ABS. The blown horn fuse might just be a coincidental thing because all the other fuses seem to be OK. I'm phoning Honda in 40 minutes.

 

So I phoned Honda, but they couldn't get me in until next week. So, I had a spare 20A fuse and I replaced the blown horn fuse (#13 in the manual). I started the RL up again, tried the horn and it worked. Then I tried to move the shifter to D from Park and IT WORKED!! I didn't have to do the override. The VSA & ABS lights didn't come on in the consul either.

Is this even possible!?! Could the whole system be crippled by a blown horn fuse?!?!?!?!? This doesn't really make a whole lot of sense. But everything is back online working now... WEIRD.

 

Fuse #13 in the manual is for "horn, stop".
I'm guessing that the "stop" part has something to do with the brake pedal switch that activates the shift lever release solenoid.
So, yes we can be crippled by one blown fuse!

 

One fuse blown, IMHO is no big deal, as it could of been a weak or bad one, or a one time short occurred and will most likely never occur again. But on the other hand if the same fuse blows again within a short period of time, then it warrants further investigation as to why. Check ALL the brake light blubs (third eye one too) one might of blown and caused the tempoary short...

 

If the power to the ABS was not on when the ignition was activated, the ABS fail light will activate so it is possible and likely that the blown fuse caused the ABS indication. Fuses usually don't just fail fo no reason so i suspect that something else poped it.

 

Isn't that crazy that the whole truck can basically be shut down by a little sliver of metal that is like 1/16"!?!?!

Honda must think that the horn is a vital system component to have this outcome. My question still remains as to HOW I actually blew that fuse... I wonder if there is a short somewhere that got wet or something??

If the third brake light fuse is blown (This is your "STOP"), you will not be able to pull the shifter out of park. This is a safety feature as these two required systems (third brake light and horn) are required by law to "safely” operate your motor vehicle..... This simple little fact is in your user manual.

Check your third brake light bulbs..... This could be the culprit to the blown fuse.

 

Someone at work bought an Accord and all night the horn was honking. I pulled the fuse for them and said problem solved! When they went to leave the same thing happened to them. Horn and brakes are on the same fuse so it assumed she had no brakes. In the long run i ripped the grill off and pulled the horn wires until she could get it fixed.

 

Well, I thought I had the problem cased, but it's obviously bigger than I thought. There has to be an electrical short someplace because I keep blowing that same 20a Horn, Stop fuse.

I thought it was only when I depressed the brake pedal when starting up, but it's not. It seems intermittent. I have no clue when it comes to automotive wiring - can anyone point me to a wiring schematic so I can try and trace the wires to check for shorts?? I've gone through a box of fuses already trying to narrow it down.

I also attached some pictures of a "mystery" switch I found mounted down by the parking brake pedal. I bought my RL second hand and it had a trailer hitch already installed - do you think this switch is for the hitch wiring? I tried turning it on and off and the fuse still blows. (I thought by turning it off it might prevent the fuse from blowing, if the problem was in the hitch electrical. But, it didn't seem to have much effect).

Anyways, any help anyone can give me will be a blessing. I have an appointment with Honda at the end of the month, but it would be nice not to have to override the shift lock every time I want to go some place. And, I'm spending my daughter's college fund on fuses. Thanks

 

It's got to have something to do with the aftermarket wiring. The Honda hitch harness does not have a switch like that.

I would rip the whole trailer wiring harness out and replace it with the proper Honda harness.

People wonder why I ask about aftermarket devices first, whenever anyone posts an electrical problem on this forum. This is example #9,989 of why I should.

 

When I phoned Honda to make the appointment, that's what the service tech said right off the bat. It is a Honda hitch, but obviously the wiring is not. Is there any way of bypassing that hitch wiring, just to test and see if it is that setup causing the short???

 

My guess on the switch would be fog lights someplace that the previous owner took off, maybe didn't cover the bare wire ends and they are shoorting someplace. Or, could it be a cut out for the VTM, a bypass for the fuse in the box? Could be causing your VTM problems.

 

Not to make your life any more complicated than it really is right now, but after looking at this picture of relays and your fuse box I thought I would remind you to open the enclosed TSB and verify if your truck falls within the range of affected vehicles regarding a fuel pump safety recall on certain affected 2006 RL's.

 

Hi, thanks. My RL is safe from this TSB. I could really use a wiring work around though!

 

I have pictures of the possible problem posted in another thread: http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27646 The short might be caused by a severed wire that is hooked up to my truck cap via the brake light. I don't know enough about wiring to see if this is the case or not.

 

As I noted in your other thread, I think the wiring to your cap is the issue. Once you get that resolved, I'd trace the wiring from that switch and figure what they have rigged up. I can think of any number of things I'd want the ability to turn off and on at the flip of a switch. Let us know what you come up with.

 

I bet the shifting/brake problem is related to the broken wire.