For me personally 21-23 were the sweet spot. You get the refreshed front end, which is subjective but imo looks waaay better than the 17-19. I like the 21-23 for the captains chars and sliding center console. You also retain in bed speakers, if you’re into that.

 

21-23 RTL or RTL-E both have great features and a reasonable price this day and age.

 

2020 should get slightly better MPG.

 

I went from a 2017 to a 2020 and it has been very solid w/ no issues. It does get great MPGs for a vehicle its size (22-24 depending on starts/stops) and is basically the same vehicle being produced today from a practical standpoint. My advice would be to get the best value for your money you can get find as long as its 2020 or newer.

 

The Modern American way ...
If you want a new RL then get a new one.
If you want a newer RL then get a newer one.

Grandparents Pioneering way is ...
continue to maintain what you've got - and as long as it meets your needs then enjoy it. You can make lots of repairs (if necessary) for the monthly payment price of a newer one.

 

Now, there is one post that in a nutshell really puts it all in proper prospective! 👍

I am going to stash this away and use it in the future, that is, if you don’t mind, Wrascal? 🙂

Bill

 

Approved.

 

Get the least old RL that has the 9 speed tranny that you can afford.

If buying new, from this point on is very good time to get a big discount off a 2025 model, especially when 2026 models hit the showrooms. Shop at the very end of the month and be flexible on colours IE the biggest discounts will apply to RLs they physically have in stock.

Good luck and let us know what you do!

 

Just picked up a new 2025 black edition for $9,000 off sticker

 

If a trade in and money availability suits and the payment is affordable, the 2025 can be had with up to (but possibly not including) 60 month financing at 0.99% interest through Honda.

 

"I'm youngish but I know that vehicles made in the post war era were easier to maintain and more robust than todays offerings which rely heavily on regualr maintenance."

I've really must dispute that assessment. Back then cars required an oil/ filter change every 3K miles; new coolant every 3/4 years. Then there were plugs, points and condensers/ distributor caps; valves re-ground at 50K miles, mufflers every 5 years and rusted thru floorboards within 5-7 years. Yes a backshade mechanic could replace simple components with wrenches and a timing light. I also remember square tires (where they sat overnight - squished, reshaped after driving them a bit). Those white walls went 25-35K miles and suffered frequent blow outs. Drum brakes that easily overheated and created white knuckle experiences. Common fuel mileage of 8-12 mpg.

Todays vehicles are significantly better (and significantly more expensive)- but they are worth it.

 

I remember annual tune-up with plugs, points & condenser. And then when it was -20 degrees F and the engine got flooded while trying to start it, repeat the plug replacement. I remember changing the oil on my '68 Mercury 390 cubic inch engine and setting the used oil in a closed container outside the garage, and the oil turned into a semi-solid sludge at -20 degrees F.

 

Totally agree that newer vehicles are more efficient and require less maintenance. The downside reality is that when a new vehicle requires service it will be very expensive and most likely require special diagnostic tools. For example my ‘21 RTL-E Honda Sense cam failed. This camera is a $1200 part and requires another $800 in labor to install and calibrate.

 

My '19 has had no problems at 80K. It is long paid for. If I have to buy a tranny tomorrow, I'll be money ahead with all I have saved in not making monthly payments.

 

👍

Bill

 

You gotta crunch your own numbers and risk tolerance... but I wouldn't jump ship out of fear. Unless of course this fear impacts your ability to sleep. Then maybe it's worth it. Financially though, what you already have is usually the best choice.

 

You've sure earned the right to discuss 6-speed transmission risk/cost - I remember when you shared that journey here. Things still going OK with the replacement?

 

Just last week we dumped our land line! 🫤
The wife did a IPhone 16 something while I ”upgraded” from my SE to her 14, mostly due to a dying battery in the SE. I still mostly use the desktop for Internet, however.
Bill

 

I'm still using my SE after 7 or so years (phone made in 2016). I found the last remaining Apple battery for my phone at UBreakit I Fix It last year and it's still working fine. My friends call me cheap, I think I'm frugal

 

I stay current and as modern as my finances allow on everything from phones to vehicles as I am only riding this life out 1 time here on the big blue ball

Sure I could still be driving my old 2007 GMC truck but would that be fun? exciting? enjoyable? stress free? low maintenance? nice to look at?

Big ol fat "No"

Im enjoying the ride while im here with-in my budget

 

I go with the newest because of the improvements. It's the price increase

 

Newest

 

I go with the newest, all updated.. your paying alot of money either way.

 

I was whining about something with my car the other day, and my wife said "Just get a new one". I wouldn't want a new one.

The sales tax alone on a new $50,000 car is $4125 (8.25% in CA). Add depreciation and you're a lot of the way towards the cost of a new transmission.

I imagine with my 2019 RTL-E, I'm going to start seeing costly electronics fail and that will be the catalyst for replacement. The radio has failed in every Honda I've owned, but luckily those were the days of the easy Radio Shack replacement. I don't know what happens when the Ridgeline Infotainment system goes.

On-topic, If I was scared of the transmission failing I'd probably be looking for the version with the bed speakers, before the auto start/stop, 2020+.

 

Yikes, I can't imagine paying over $4k in taxes. In SC, sales tax on new vehicles is capped at $500 which was $300 until a few years ago. We do however have personal property tax on vehicles here which is probably a little higher than your vehicle license fee. I guess the state is going to get theirs one way or another.

 

I bought a new 2023 RTL-E in the fall of 2022. It's been a great truck so far. There have been a couple of hiccups in the transmission, but I am hoping those don't indicate future trouble. I will probably get an aftermarket warranty as the factory powertrain warranty is expiring. Good luck!

 

Check out new - and consider extended warranty. I went through the same exercise for same reason 10 months/10,000 miles ago and don’t regret at all. Improved hood, paddle shifters, ZF transmission, locking tailgate, TrailSport pkg, new styling, wider opening rear door - and hasn’t been back to dealership for any warranty issues. I do tow trailers so the warranty gives me a lot of peace of mind that was lacking with a 2018 RTL-E. I thought my dealer gave me a good number on the trade so you might be surprised too and get to choose between a ‘25 or ‘26. Good luck!

 

One little known factor which is important to me and probably some others--2017-19 can be placed into neutral from inside the cab if the battery is dead, which has been the norm. I think starting in 2020, you need a special tool and know how to use it, and most important--you need access to get at the spot where you use the tool. I don't know all the details, but when I park in the garage I don't have access to the front end. When my battery died in the garage, I was able to release the transmission lock and shift to neutral, then push the truck back until I could open the hood and replace the battery. I think on a 2020 or after, I'd need a tow truck to drag my truck, skidding all the way, back far enough to open the hood.

And I happen to think the 2017-19 looks a lot better, but more importantly, with the newer front end I've read that it is more difficult to know where the front end is so parking is a bit harder.

 

One little known factor which is important to me and probably some others--2017-19 can be placed into neutral from inside the cab if the battery is dead, which has been the norm. I think starting in 2020, you need a special tool and know how to use it, and most important--you need access to get at the spot where you use the tool. I don't know all the details, but when I park in the garage I don't have access to the front end. When my battery died in the garage, I was able to release the transmission lock and shift to neutral, then push the truck back until I could open the hood and replace the transmission. I think on a 2020 or after, I'd need a tow truck to drag my truck, skidding all the way, back far enough to open the hood.

And I happen to think the 2017-19 looks a lot better, but more importantly, with the newer front end I've read that it is more difficult to know where the front end is so parking is a bit harder.

We have info here on how to make a "homemade" tool to put the trans in neutral with a non running engine.
I will see if I can find the thread and post it soon.

 

Link to one of a couple of threads here on the forum

https://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/threads/putting-transmission-in-neutral-manually-method-and-tools-needed.245018/?post_id=3414893&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-3414893

 

Another.....my post is #52

https://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/threads/is-it-possible-to-move-my-ridgeline-in-my-garage-in-neutral-without-starting-the-engine.244959/page-3#replies

 

It's all in what you want. I have a 2019 RTL and my wife has a 2020 Pilot, both with the 6 speed. I'm right at 80K and hers is at 90K; she mainly does city driving with the occasional long trip. Mine is about evenly split between country driving and towing a 4K pound trailer on the interstate. The only problems so far have been a leaky windshield and prematurely worn out sway bar mounts. I change the transmission fluid and filter myself every 20K miles regardless what the MM says. So far we love them, especially since they're paid for.

 

Read everyones posts regarding being spooked on 6 speed transmission. Decided to stand pat & do drain & fill more often. Don't like push button shift-- thought that ended with Studebaker ! Don't like Giant Ridgeline on tailgate. Trying to look like Ford/Chevy I suppose. Tks for your inputs folks & good luck. Ridgeline is a good truck !

 

A lot of nice 23's out there with nice depreciation and no Giant Ridgeline on the tailgate.

The 23's had a long production run since the 24's were not available until about Dec 23/Jan 24.

There are a lot of 23's out there.

You are in a sweet spot for a 23.....not too old......not too new.....and a CPO unit would have great coverage.

 

23s still have the push button shift, however!
Bill

 

Yes it does.