It sounds like the bearing in the front mount isn't rotating smoothly.

 

Would that be from a bad mount or poor installation job? Do you think just throwing in a complete OEM assembly could fix it? Thanks

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I'm running with my second set of KYBs. The last set was installed at 310,000. They make my RTL drive and feel like the day I drove it off the showroom floor. Someone did bad things for yours to do as you describe.

Incidently, mine are guaranteed for life. I plan on another free set in another 100,000 miles. OEMs were changed out at about 120,000. Oh, and my RTL is 100 per cent stock.

 

I'm running with my second set of KYB. The last set was installed at 310,000. They make my RTL drive and feel like the day I drove it off the showroom floor. Someone did bad things for yours to do as you describe.

Incidently, mine are guaranteed for life. I plan on another free set in another 100,000 miles.

That's what I'm thinking too... My originals weren't even that bad and I only did the swap because of the age of the truck, I was really hoping to get it done and over with and to hold me down for the remainder of its life.

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You have to live somewhere in the northwest. There is a chain of tire stores called Les Schwab that has been around for over 60 years. (Look them up in a recent Consumers Report as were rated #1 in the US). My last set of KYB's were free including the alignment after. This is the second time I have used their free lifetime warranty.

 

Interesting, they just opened a Les Schwab 5 mins from my house here in So Cal and wonder if they have the same lifetime program.

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If it's a Les Schwab, I'm sure they offer the lifetime program. I've been a customer of theirs for 50 years and that is not the only lifetime guarantee they offer.

 

If it's a Les Schwab, I'm sure they offer the lifetime program. I've been a customer of theirs for 50 years and that is not the only lifetime guarantee they offer.

Ok cool I'm going to give a call tomorrow. By any chance do you have a lift on your RL? I wonder if the guy that installed my struts messed them up because of the lift? I dont know if theres some extra steps that come with the install?

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Yep, like I said, mine is bone stock.

 

Hi guys I've had my 06 w/168k miles on it now for about 10 years, traxda lift installed about 5 years ago and bigger tires 265/65 r17 Cooper discoverer at3s for over a year or so, but I recently went back to stock tire size and decided to have my mechanic change out all 4 corners with complete KYB strut assemblies also put in 2 new lower control arms and got an alignment.
Right away I noticed that my coil catches/grabs on the top rubber area of the strut it's most noticeable when I first start my truck and turn the wheel, it makes a springy sound and pulls/jumps a bit. Also when I make a right turn over bumps, turning up a drive way, or any level change it makes a rattling noise kind of sounds like dropping a marble or nuts/bolts into an empty container..
Has anyone experienced this and did I get bad struts and need to go with OEM?? Oh by the way I later changed out the front sway bar links with the correct size according to traxda and also installed new sway bar bushings but noise is still there. Truck feels fine other than the issue above or when I'm driving straight haha, it doesnt vibrate plus everything looks tight and CV axles look good.. they're both OEM now with the passenger side being a month old and driver side being around 6 months old..

Thanks in advance!

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Did you ever get this sorted out?
I am having the same issue.
Installed complete strut assemblies, had spring bind issue, ordered another set under warranty and same issue.
I feel like it is the strut mount bearings, but, it's hard to believe it happening on both sets.

 

Yes I did.. Only after I double/triple checked everything and tightened down/torqued the subframe (helped a little bit). I ended up returning the two front KYB's as defective and installed 2 Honda OEM fronts and what do you know the problem was gone haha. I did also have a lift on it that I ended up taking off also.

Hope that helps

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@fancypants47 For completeness, what brand did you install?

 

KYB

 

 

Another unhappy KYB quickstrut user here........popping noises. New control arms, sway bar links. What a disappointment.

 

Thanks for the reply.
That's not really what I wanted to hear, but, good to know.
I am in the process of dealing with Rock Auto's warranty department.
I am outside the return window and made the mistake of throwing away my original strut assemblies.
I wonder if it would make sense to install OEM mounts/bearings on the KYB struts?

 

Yeah I thought about that too but I was so over it at that point that I didn't want to have to go back in there and try to figure something else out in the case that wasn't the issue. So the way I saw it was that my peace of mind simply out weighed the extra cost on the oem's for me.

And yes Rock Auto has terrible customer service.

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So am I correct that the only issues appear to be on the front struts and no issues with the rears?

 

I haven’t noticed any issues with the rears. Been installed for a few months. The only problem I’ve had is with the spring bind in the front. From what I can tell is from bad bearings/mounts.
Rock Auto agreed to give me a refund. I’ve ordered a set of Monroe’s. Hopefully, that will be the end of it.

 

Thought I'd post an update.
I have gone through 2 sets of KYB front struts and 2 sets of Monroe front struts. All bad.
All of them had the spring bind issue where they would pop when you turn the steering wheel after sitting for a while.
The most recent Monroe front passenger side strut made all kinds of creaking, groaning, popping noises.
I broke down and ordered OEM struts and, magically, they work flawlessly.
During the process of swapping out the struts so many times, my front passenger CV axle decided to go bad.
I picked up a boot kit and an aftermarket axle. It was too far gone to make sense of re-booting it.
I swapped in the aftermarket axle and immediately had issues.
I had the Honda dealership overnight an OEM axle in and swapped it out the following morning.
I have had zero issues from the OEM axle.
Rock Auto has refunded me for all of the struts I purchased from them. I think I've spent about $150 on freight that I will not be getting back.
Long story long... I am now a firm believer in buying OEM over aftermarket.

 

I swore off aftermarket years ago. They really just "screw the pooch" when it comes to cheap car parts. Brakes i do still buy but always ask for a name brand version. It's amazing how bad some parts are but still are carried by vendors. (that's the cheap price part of the equation)

 

Yeah. I can't believe these parts are being sold.
It's mind boggling.

 

@fancypants47 You are not the first to encounter issues with A/M axles. Interesting to learn about the strut issue too.

 

One option would be to just buy the KYB or Monroe etc strut (strut component only) and then reuse OEM pieces with the likely exception of the upper bearing / mount which you could replace with new OEM. It would require a spring compressor and time but it would cost less than OEM and should avoid the dreaded binding issues.

That would have been an option had I not thrown away my stock struts

 

One option would be to just buy the KYB or Monroe etc strut (strut component only) and then reuse OEM pieces with the likely exception of the upper bearing / mount which you could replace with new OEM. It would require a spring compressor and time but it would cost less than OEM and should avoid the dreaded binding issues.

 

I have a 2010 RTL with 102,000 miles on it. I recently replaced all 4 struts with the KYB complete units and installed the Traxda 2" lift kit with the new shorter swaybar links. I also bought new wheels and 265/60-18 tires. Now I have a slight rattle in what sounds like the front right. It sound slike a dull rattle, like something with the strut that transmits into the strut tower area. I checked all the bolts, nothing is loose. I called the tech department at Traxda he said pull that strut out and make sure the nut on the top of the strut shaft was tight. I did this and everything was tight, I loosened the nut and re-tightened it with my impact gun. Am I looking at a bad KYB strut right out of the box?

 

I’ve been drinking for about 14 hours. Will you ask a question in the morning so I have a reminder? I couldn’t believe that brand née strut assemblies could be bad out of the box until I dealt with 4 sets of them bad out of the box. I still don’t get it, but, Honda struts made all of my noises go away.

 

Thanks Guys. I bought the KYB`s from Tirerack. I cut the studs shorter per the Traxda instructions, now I`ll probably never be able to return the 2 fronts.

 

Am I correct in assuming this noise comes from the upper bearing mount on these KYB struts? Could I buy the Honda bearings and other pieces needed and put them on these KYB struts?

 

Yes that should work as KYB also sells just the strut itself to be installed with the OEM Springs and top bearing etc. You will need to compress the spring and safely hold it compressed to do the install.

 

Thanks.
Has anyone ever found exactly what the problem was with the KYB top bearing?

 

Same issue with Monroe quick struts I just installed. Sounds to me like it's only coming from the passenger side. Very frustrating.

 

I just had a conversation with Monroe customer support. When I told him the vehicle, he said "yeah, we have had a lot of complaints with that strut." Then he said they made a running change to the strut assembly that addresses the problem, and that is indicated by an "@" after the part number on the package label.

Since I purchased from RockAuto, I have to take it up with them for getting it swapped out, but I have a feeling it's going to be difficult go get one from RockAuto with the @ sign.

Update: Summit Racing ships directly from the manufacturer, so I'll try ordering from them.

 

I'd be interested to know what they did to address the problem and what they decided the problem was.
It'd be nice if they shared that info with KYB, but that would be bad for their bottom line.
When I spoke with KYB, they wouldn't even admit that it was something they had heard of before.

 

Is it a light almost constant rattle you hear and feel in the passenger side?

 

No, mine is a popping sound only while turning the steering wheel. Like something is not lubricated right and is binding up and releasing constantly as you turn.

 

I`m going to order the honda parts to replace the upper bearing and mount on my KYB`s.

 

When a company like KYB has a page like this they know there is a problem with their product and have no problem pointing the finger at other things.

Noises After Shock/Strut Replacement: Causes. - KYB Americas

Internal shock or strut noise is uncommon. The most common cause for clunking noises over bumps is the mounts or attaching parts.

www.kyb.com

 

When a company like KYB has a page like this they know there is a problem with their product and have no problem pointing the finger at other things.

Noises After Shock/Strut Replacement: Causes. - KYB Americas

Internal shock or strut noise is uncommon. The most common cause for clunking noises over bumps is the mounts or attaching parts.

www.kyb.com

KYB is a reputable company and just like any reputable company, they are not immune to design defects in the real world. That does not mean that they are deflecting blame; they are merely stating that you cover all bases prior to isolating or assuming the problem is the strut.

 

I installed the one new strut from Summit. I does not make the popping noise while turning, but it does make an awful metallic clinging sound over every bump, even small bumps or movements. This is getting old.


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I installed the one new strut from Summit. I does not make the popping noise while turning, but it does make an awful metallic clinging sound over every bump, even small bumps or movements. This is getting old.

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Did you check the torque on the sway bar end link nuts? I have had those work themselves lose and even rocking the truck (by pushing down on it or jumping on the running board) would produce that clunking/knocking sound.