I think I may have found a little bit more about the location. It looks to be in an accumulator valve body. Is there a cover to access this valve body? Those pages off the repair manual may still be what I need to help access and repair the issue. The valve that Im replacing is one of the valves labled #20 on the diagram. More info from this diagram posted is at this link http://www.1hondaparts.com/auto-par.../transmission-automatic-cat/at-accumulator-body-1-scat/?part_number=28500rdk003

 

The cover is the part on the lower left of the drawing you posted. You have to remove linkage first, then the connectors, cover and eventually the solenoid (Valve). The manual calls for new gaskets and o-rings when changing any valves.
If you have a fax, I can copy the pages and fax them to you. Shoot me a PM if that is a plan. I might be able to scan the pages and email attachments if you don't have a fax.

 

Your awesome RidgeKid!!! Check your PM.

Not long ago, about 3 months now I had an issue where the radiator had an internal leak between the transmission and engine coolant. The engine coolant overflow had a strawberry color like foam flowing out of it. After knowing what happened I didnt drive the truck, I had it towed to a shop and had it serviced. The contaminants in the engine and transmission had to be flushed several times, and the radiator was replaced. They tried getting all the contaminates out between the two but said the transmission still had a little coolant residual that it would eventually evaporate out. When I got the truck home I could pull the transmission dipstick and see that the fluid on the stick was not bad but a little milky... Im almost certain the failure that Im having now is due to the radiator failure 3 months ago... They were right, the coolant did evaporate, it's a clear red now but Im afraid its going to be other issues like this because of the radiator failure.

Thanks so much RidgeKid for the repair manual scan!!! :act024:

 

They were right, the coolant did evaporate, it's a clear red now but Im afraid its going to be other issues like this because of the radiator failure.

Your fear may very well be founded. Transmission components such as clutch plates and seals are designed to be submerged in transmission fluid not water and propylene glycol. The contaminants can break down the binders in the clutch material causing pieces to break off and clog up fluid paths and degrade seals.

 

Apparently the internal radiator leak issue has happened to a few people on here. I cant find the post, but remember reading back when I had the issue, one guy when doing the repair went as far as bypassing the transmission cooler lines in the new radiator with an external radiator cooler. Here are a few examples of people that had the internal radiator failure.

Darrand says: My radiator gave up on Friday the 13th and provided me with the "strawberry milkshake of death"
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92281&highlight=transmission+oil+in+coolant

packhntr says: they checked it out and the entire bottom of the radiator assembly where the trans cooler is blew out. It looked like it actually leaked internally for a short time (trans fluid into the rad) before it gave up the ghost.
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94641&highlight=radiator+failure+foam

glake says: Light pink transmission fluid doesn't sound right to me. Do you think it may have had a radiator failure and swapped some fluids?
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95210&highlight=radiator+failure+foam

Then on other model Honda's it seems to be a common problem too.

This next link is on the Pilot The Honda dealer chimes in saying he has seen it before in a Ridgeline...
http://www.automotiveforums.com/t1068974-pilot_transmission_radiator_problem.html

on, and on, and on...
http://www.carcomplaints.com/Honda/Pilot/2005/transmission/leak_from_radiator_failure.shtml

I dont know guys, are any of you guys going to preemptively replace your radiator to avoid the inevitable? I had recovered after the fact and still struggling with issues because of it today Most the posts I ve seen online people drove their truck till catastrophic failure. Lucky for me Im always proactively checking fluids and in tune to whats going on under the hood. I didn't drive the truck 1 inch knowing I could cause more problems, I had it towed to the shop. If your radiator is still decent perhaps the solution might be just do a slight mod and add an external trans cooler and bypass the radiator all together.

 

....................

I dont know guys, are any of you guys going to preemptively replace your radiator to avoid the inevitable? I had recovered after the fact and still struggling with issues because of it today Most the posts I ve seen online people drove their truck till catastrophic failure. Lucky for me Im always proactively checking fluids and in tune to whats going on under the hood. I didn't drive the truck 1 inch knowing I could cause more problems, I had it towed to the shop. If your radiator is still decent perhaps the solution might be just do a slight mod and add an external trans cooler and bypass the radiator all together.

Many members have taken the preemptive action of radiator replacement prior to failure..... in fact, very few have actually suffered this failure, but due to the extreme nature of potential consequences, many have opted to upgrade the radiator at a convenient opportunity (some just do it when they buy their truck!). It's not uncommon at all for owners to replace the radiator when they do the timing belt service (105K miles for most). Then again, there are those (myself included) who have done nothing other than to conduct periodic inspections & remain vigilant. I'll probably change mine out with the second timing belt. I'm at 146K miles on her now... knock on wood.

 

Lost here, I don't have a scan tool. Backed out of my driveway, put RL in drive and the following happened:
- right rear tire pressure sensor
- check engine light
- Transmission selector "D" flashing
- VTM 4 indicator came on

RL has been hesitating lately acceleration from stop when cold.

EGR valve maybe?

 

I'm thinking more like a sensor. Other smarter guys will chime in I'm sure.

 

There are a lot of reasons the VTM-4 light can come on.

You should fill out your profile so others know what year truck you have and the general area you live in.

There are so many questions needing answers:
1) mileage on your truck?
2) what year truck?
3) what is the maintenance history?
4) have you done any recent maintenance?
5) do you DIY?
6) have you checked the spark plugs for any loose plugs?
7) have you checked fluid color and odor (tranny)
8) have you checked coolant color?
9) have you determined the codes being thrown?
10) does your RL emit any smoke (blue or white) when it's started from cold?

etc.

 

Well Id start with puttin air in that tire, that should eliminate that one. The VCM light came on in mine when I had a 02 sensor go bad and was told they show up on a lot of different ones that go bad so wouldnt worry about that one to much. Most auto stores will pull the code free.

 

In the past when people report multiple dash lights coming on all at once, it's been a battery on it's last legs. The computer is very sensitive to voltage, and tends to freak out when it's low.

Chip H.