I have seen them on eBay and Amazon and every online Honda dealer will have them.

 

I buy them online along with oil filters, air filters, cabin filters, and anything else I need. Usually in batches as needed to save on shipping. I'm also keeping 2 Acuras and 1 Honda on the road, so those orders are fairly regular. Shop Genuine Honda OEM Parts & Accessories Online - Bernardi Parts Honda

 

I buy them online along with oil filters, air filters, cabin filters, and anything else I need. Usually in batches as needed to save on shipping. I'm also keeping 2 Acuras and 1 Honda on the road, so those orders are fairly regular. Shop Genuine Honda OEM Parts & Accessories Online - Bernardi Parts Honda

Hi i checked parts price and its $8 more to have the dealership change oil.

 

Ok. Let me rephrase the question. Can anyone provide a specific link or item number for the crush washer ?

Thank you

 

All it took was about 6 clicks on the site I shared. Honda Drain Plug Washer (14MM)

 

Amazon.com: 20-Pack of Oil Crush Washers/Drain Plug Gaskets compatible with Honda - compatible with OEM 94109-14000 - Fits Civic, Accord, CR-V/CRV, Pilot, Odyssey and More - By Mission Automotive: Automotive

 

I found one right behind the drain plug. Been using it since 2017 and it's fine. Just like every other once since 1970.

 

 

I never use any oil washers. Got a Fumoto. Makes them obsolete.

 

I never use any oil washers. Got a Mityvac. Makes them obsolete.

 

I use a Fumoto, but every auto parts store here has packs of the aluminum washers in various sizes on the shelf. Generally they want about the same money for a 10-pack as your dealer will want for about 3.

 

I believe it's a 14mm bolt for the oil pan. I'm planning on ordering the fumoto drain valve for my next oil change. That way I can change the oil without having to jack the truck up. I wish I knew about these types of valves years ago.

 

We just installed F106SX valves on our new Hybrid CR-V's. All our Passports, Ridgelines, Accords, Civics also use same. No tools, no crush washers and easy to remove once traded in or sold. Never had an issue with leak or valve failure.

Fun fact:.. put a EZ-124 into our chipper and EZ-109 into our new Honda EU7000ISNAN generator.

 

All you people not replacing the sealing washers, what are you doing with all the money you’re saving? Or is there some other advantage besides bragging rights?

 

Guess it’s an uninformed upbringing on motorcycles and never having an issue as I learned to wrench on things. I just don’t bother.
There’s a long history of the results of not changing oil. Can’t say I’ve experienced or read of any catastrophic failures due to oil crush washer neglect.
It’s also a nice way of conveying to the OP that there’s more important things to worry about.

 

If a sealing washer is sealing there is no reason to replace it. Even then you can anneal them. You replace them when they stop sealing or break. Or you want to.

 

That’s like waiting for your engine to fail before changing oil. Why change the oil if it’s still working? You only know after it fails.

And how is annealing better than replacing?

 

There is always a separate charge for that crush washer when you have your oil changed by a dealer. I always get a kick out of telling them that my vehicle didn't require one. Of course I always tell them at check in that I have a Fumoto oil drain valve.

 

Where do folks get their oil drain o-rings ?

For V6 2018.

I would like to know of a commercial source that matches OEM. Last time I found a 4-pack of rings that all look different. Used the aluminum crush washer out of the four and don't trust the others.

Just sayin', love my Ridgeline, but oil changes have been kind of a hassle.
Thanks

Amazon.com

 

You can anneal at home with a candle, so it’s cheaper. Maybe some like to save the $ and not discard so much ‘stuff.’

 

And if you make your own candles you can save even more.

 

Anyone ever use the Nylon ribbed ones? Easy to pick up a package Advance Auto. Used one on my old Jeep but never the RL. Wasn’t sure if the torque specs would change with a nylon vs metal one.

 

Need I say it? Do not anneal nylon washers.

And stop using torque wrenches for everything. Use them for connecting rod bolts, main bearing cap bolts and now, unbelievably, wheel lug nuts.

Running for the bunker...

 

The deal breaker for me is l can’t anneal the nylon washer with my homemade candle.

 

OK, OK. Head bolts.

 

One positive thing about the coming demise of the ICE - no more oil change interval/oil filter/oil drain plug threads!

 

As with most arguments like this (e g. - oil threads), the truth generally lies somewhere in the middle, if there is a truth. Some folks need definitive answers, and more power to them. I learned long ago that life is too short to worry about lesser definitive.

Switching gears, I got a Yard Machines (MTD) push mower back in 1998. It had a 6.75hp B&S engine, with no oil filter. Changed the oil once a year, used the dog out of it in Texas for six years, then it moved with me up north. Kept using the heck out of it until about seven years ago, then gave it to a co-worker. He's still using it.

 

My local dealer will change oil for about the same cost as doing it myself. I think they see oil changes as a loss leader - they know if they get you in the shop they can sell other services. That’s why some dealers offer “free oil changes for life”. One day I’ll probably go that way, but for now I enjoy performing oil changes as well as other maintenance tasks.

 

I've got a bag full of the oil pan washers that I got for cheap, probably from HandA when they were still in business. It was likely an add-on to an A01 filter order (should've ordered several cases of those when they were available!). Anyways, the bag of washers has a designated spot on a garage shelf, so they are quick and easy to find when the time comes. No fuss, no muss, no worries.

Will be checking out bulk washer prices on trans (I've the 6AT) and diff plugs, too. I can always use them for other stuff.

 

Can't wait to buy them for my R1T.