[Celltech]

"Carry out the dynamic camera aiming procedure on a flat and straight road that has several lanes that will allow the vehicle to be driven at speeds between 45－70 mph (72－112 km/h) for 10 minutes or more."

This seems ridiculous...I was wondering why he had put so many miles on the truck. What a PITA...

 

[zroger73]

As the owner of said lifted vehicle I can't tell any difference in the ADAS performance before or after the lift. The self driving performance is still just as bad as it was before the lift. The pre-collision alert still worked, it still false alarms going around gentle right hand turns, and the radar cruse still worked. Is it performing at less than 100%? I have no idea...if it had worked perfectly before I might have been able to tell a difference.

The most significant risk is in that one instance where a few feet of activation distance can make the difference between a simple change of underwear and a big insurance claim, ticket, injury, or fatality.

Like most vehicles, the Ridgeline has only a single camera, so it has terrible depth perception. In order to calculate distance from an object, it has to first identify what that object is (e.g., automobile or pedestrian or cyclist) and what size it should be then consider how quickly that object is increasing in size based on the number of pixels it occupies and how the rest of the image changes in relation to the object. Part of this equation is a known and accurate height of the camera from the driving surface. If the camera is at a different height, it cannot accurately calculate distance. The software can compensate within a limited range, but once you exceed this range it is no longer accurate, which is why the aiming procedures fails. If you cheat by raising static aiming targets, for example, the vehicle's distance calculations will be less accurate.

Let's say the vehicle sees a pedestrian in the road that it thinks is 100 feet away. Based on the current vehicle speed and known stopping distance of the vehicle in its stock configuration, it can calculate when and how hard to apply the brakes. If you've ever experienced or seen automatic emergency braking, you'd know that it often stops just feet and sometimes inches away from the target. If the vehicle thinks the pedestrian is 100 feet away based on a calculation, but they are actually 90 feet away, the vehicle might not brake in time to avoid a collision. Because geometry, an inch of camera height can result in a difference of several feet at those distances.

 

[zroger73]

"Carry out the dynamic camera aiming procedure on a flat and straight road that has several lanes that will allow the vehicle to be driven at speeds between 45－70 mph (72－112 km/h) for 10 minutes or more."

This seems ridiculous...I was wondering why he had put so many miles on the truck. What a PITA...

A new Tesla requires about 25 miles of driving while the cameras calibrate themselves. Until that process completes, there is no self-driving, lane keeping assistance, or even cruise control.

 

[ATL RL]

"Carry out the dynamic camera aiming procedure on a flat and straight road that has several lanes that will allow the vehicle to be driven at speeds between 45－70 mph (72－112 km/h) for 10 minutes or more."

This seems ridiculous...I was wondering why he had put so many miles on the truck. What a PITA...

My guess......it has a whole shopping list of things it wants to pick up.....and it may need to 'see' some of them more than once

things like..........

center white line
left side yellow line
right side white line
(both on old roads with no reflectors and maybe new roads with them)
gentle left and right deviations from straight ahead while driving
distinguish the ground from the horizon
detect narrow posts with info signs like speed limit or deer crossing or yield signs
detects right and left turn lanes
detects bridges
detects other cars that you are overtaking or that are passing you

etc, etc

 

[Celltech]

Like most vehicles, the Ridgeline has only a single camera, so it has terrible depth perception. In order to calculate distance from an object, it has to first identify what that object is (e.g., automobile or pedestrian or cyclist) and what size it should be then consider how quickly that object is increasing in size based on the number of pixels it occupies and how the rest of the image changes in relation to the object. Part of this equation is a known and accurate height of the camera from the driving surface. If the camera is at a different height, it cannot accurately calculate distance. The software can compensate within a limited range, but once you exceed this range it is no longer accurate, which is why the aiming procedures fails. If you cheat by raising static aiming targets, for example, the vehicle's distance calculations will be less accurate.

Does the RL camera actually look for anything other than the road edges/lines? I feel like the radar is the only thing looking for objects in the road. Obviously the RL is a child compared to the Tesla's ADAS system. I know I lifted the truck and the responsibility lies in my lap...I just have a hard time believing it can screw this particular system up so much considering how simplistic it is.

 

[zroger73]

Yes - the radar measures distance only from metallic objects like automobiles. The camera uses shape, color, and position to identify and classify objects such as lane markings, automobiles, headlights, taillights, street lights, and pedestrians. The two sensors work together.

Trees, cardboard boxes, hogs, and plastic trash bins are neither metallic nor in the shape of automobiles or humans. The system is not programmed to recognize those objects and will drive right into them at full speed.

 

[ATL RL]

Yes - the radar measures distance only from metallic objects like automobiles. The camera uses shape, color, and position to identify and classify objects such as lane markings, automobiles, headlights, taillights, street lights, and pedestrians. The two sensors work together.

Trees, cardboard boxes, hogs, and plastic trash bins are neither metallic nor in the shape of automobiles or humans. The system is not programmed to recognize those objects and will drive right into them at full speed.

I saw a YouTube video where the guy stacked up a bunch of boxes and was trying to demonstrate the emergency braking//full stop of a car's safety system and went right though them at full speed like an old Starsky & Hutch episode.
He failed to account for the need of the object to be metallic.
No car dents...just a few scuffs on the paint!

 

[Celltech]

Just spent 4 hours removing the front lift in preparation for trying to have Honda do the calibration. Man that lower ball joint is tight... My measurements look to be right at the max of the allowed variance, so no excuses now. I left the .75" rear lift on and have the front sway bar disconnected as I had thrown away the old links. She wallows around turns a bit now

 

[Celltech]

Annnnnddd it's over. Honda was able to get it calibrated for $335, 75 minutes of time, and 5.4 miles of driving. Tried out all the systems on my way to work and they still suck. Not looking forward to taking everything apart again to put the lift back on, but it is what it is. Lesson learned...

 

[ATL RL]

Annnnnddd it's over. Honda was able to get it calibrated for $335, 75 minutes of time, and 5.4 miles of driving. Tried out all the systems on my way to work and they still suck. Not looking forward to taking everything apart again to put the lift back on, but it is what it is. Lesson learned...

Thanks for posting your details. Your updates may help others in the future.

 

[kham_s]

That sucks you had to do all that. I got lucky I found a place that was able to get mine done with a 2" traxda lift. Long story short, I had a crack and got my front windshield replaced through insurance with Safelite Autoglass who installed non-oem glass and was unable to get calibration done. I took it to a difference shop and they couldn't get it done, stating that it was likely due to the non-oem glass. So I got Safelite to replace it with OEM glass. Took it back to the shop to get it calibrated and they still had trouble but they took it to another shop and somehow got it to calibrate. I'm in San Diego area so if any of you guys need a referral to the shop, just let me know. I paid them $450 for the calibration, and that was with multiple tries, and I think he would have gone lower if it had not been an insurance claim deal. Well worth it since I did not have to take my lift off.

 

[Celltech]

That sucks you had to do all that. I got lucky I found a place that was able to get mine done with a 2" traxda lift.

I am not actually sure if I had to remove it or not, but I was not about to go to Honda just to have it fail again....so I tried to put the odds in my favor. The glass repair place was using an Autel scan tool that just kept saying the test failed without any code or reason why. I found it interesting that Honda only put 5.4 miles on the truck. It seems that driving 10+ minutes at 45-75 is not required when it wants to work.

 

[ClayTech]

I took my '22 in for windshield replacement this morning. They sent me a text yesterday about calibrating the sensors, with these instructions:

1. Full gas tank
2. No extra weight in the vehicle
3. No suspension modifications

So I emptied the bed, took all my tools out of the trunk, and filled it with gas. I don't have a lift, so hopefully it will go smoothly.

 

[ClayTech]

Done. They can't do the driving portion of the calibration in the rain, so they had to wait all day for the weather to clear, but other than that no issues. I've never seen such a clean windshield, can barely tell it's there. It does look different than the old one, but I can't say specifically how. It's made by Fuyao, who is a supplier of much of Honda's glass, but apparently not the OEM supplier for the Ridgeline windshield. It's most likely not the acoustic glass that I had before, but I have not had it out on the highway yet to see if there's a noticeable sound difference.

 

[blackridge17]

That sucks you had to do all that. I got lucky I found a place that was able to get mine done with a 2" traxda lift. Long story short, I had a crack and got my front windshield replaced through insurance with Safelite Autoglass who installed non-oem glass and was unable to get calibration done. I took it to a difference shop and they couldn't get it done, stating that it was likely due to the non-oem glass. So I got Safelite to replace it with OEM glass. Took it back to the shop to get it calibrated and they still had trouble but they took it to another shop and somehow got it to calibrate. I'm in San Diego area so if any of you guys need a referral to the shop, just let me know. I paid them $450 for the calibration, and that was with multiple tries, and I think he would have gone lower if it had not been an insurance claim deal. Well worth it since I did not have to take my lift off.

I need a referral please.

 

[BeshmoHandes]

Not looking forward to taking everything apart again to put the lift back on, but it is what it is.

Does this mean the camera system won't work after the lift is installed again, or just that it can't be calibrated while a lift is installed? Anyone have experience with Gen 2 ADAS driving with a lift kit?

 

[Celltech]

Does this mean the camera system won't work after the lift is installed again, or just that it can't be calibrated while a lift is installed? Anyone have experience with Gen 2 ADAS driving with a lift kit?

My camera and its driving functions worked before and after the lift with the original windshield...and as far as I could tell the operation seemed the same. Once the replacement glass was installed, with the lift in place, it would not calibrate. And once you start that calibration there is no way to cancel it and go back to the previous settings. If and when I ever have to get new glass I will insist they DON'T mess with the calibration and just leave it as is.

Honestly, the ADAS system in the RL is half baked and never has worked that smoothly either before or after the lift. I have always gotten phantom brake warnings/shaking steering wheel when making very sight right hand sweeping turns and a car is oncoming. More annoying than anything...