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SOLUTION:

I had the exact same scrunching/chattering/rattling problem on my new 2018 BE that's only 6 weeks old. I tried a bunch of different homemade fixes but finally got fed up and brought it to the dealer.

During the first (unsuccessful) attempt they replaced the window channel. The theory was the window wasn't seated properly so a new channel would hold it more securely.

A few days later I picked up the car drove it around the corner, and right back to the service area. It wasn't fixed - still scrunching? Really frustrating because I was so explicit in my description. I even left type-written instructions in the truck with pix, color coded arrows, etc. This forum made me realize this was going to be a tough one so I was trying to be as detailed as possible.

After a little complaining (truck only has 700 miles on it!) the "sound" tech came out for a diagnostic drive with me. In the beginning he played dumb but eventually he heard it - probably because I was so adamant about pointing it

Luckily, the tech was good, took me seriously and had me schedule a second appointment. I picked up the car yesterday and the rattle/scrunching sound is gone!!!! I'm so happy!!!

The invoice said they replaced the "driver door cap and sash garnish". Basically they replaced the rubber seal and the triangular plastic cap towards the lower front corner of the window.

For everyone's reference here are the part #s:

72315-TG7-A01 SEAL
72496-TG7-A01 GARNISH

Hope this helps.
Good luck!!!
 
So the cap is on the interior and opposite from the side where the noise is coming from? And the seal is the one that is clipped in around the entire outline of the door?

Thank you for the post.

Matt
I was told they replaced the interior cap towards the bottom front of the window. There is also one in the top/back corner (where the sounds was coming from). They replaced the top cap when they installed the new channel during the first repair (which didn't fix the problem).

As for the seal, I was under the impression it was the rubber strip that runs along the top of the window frame (it may go all the way around?) - where the sound was coming from. The window slots into the channel and there is a rubber seal between the window and the interior of the car. In fact, when I used to push on the defective seal I could hear it creak/scrunch.

That's why I included the exact Honda part numbers and part names from the invoice - what the Service Adviser told me could be totally different to what the Tech fixed.

72315-TG7-A01 SEAL
72496-TG7-A01 GARNISH
 
I'm going to mention this to the dealership next time I go. The tech I dealt with told me he checks the forums so hopefully it works. In the meantime, I have put Shin-Etsu grease inside the rubber seals where they touch the metal frame as I can reproduce the scrunching sound when pressing the seals around the driver's side door. Anyone know if this is bad for the seals? I know this grease was intended as a protector of seals from UV rays however, I've been told it was only to be used on rubber. I guess the new seals are no longer made out of rubber but a compound of several other materials. I hope this works and does not just further my problem...
 
2018 BE with 600 miles on it. Just started hearing the noise from the top rear area of the window when I go over bumps. I put light pressure on the window (pressing out) and the noise stopped, so it has to be to loose within the window seal at the top. Doesn't happen when the window is down at all. Will be taking it to the dealer soon.
 
2018 BE with 600 miles on it. Just started hearing the noise from the top rear area of the window when I go over bumps. I put light pressure on the window (pressing out) and the noise stopped, so it has to be to loose within the window seal at the top. Doesn't happen when the window is down at all. Will be taking it to the dealer soon.
Please let me know what they say. I'm bringing mine in in mid Jan for servicing and want to show them the different solutions posted on this forum. Thanks.
 
Please let me know what they say. I'm bringing mine in in mid Jan for servicing and want to show them the different solutions posted on this forum as they can't seem to figure it out themselves. Thanks.
Took it in this morning and of course the service tech "couldn't duplicate" the issue. He had the service manager go out with me and within a minute, he heard the noises. He said it definitely sounds like an issue with the window moving within the track rails. He put slight pressure on the window and the noises stopped, so I'm going back tomorrow morning to have the entire track replaced and he also is going to replace the seals around the door frame just in case.

On a side note, I also noticed if the window is partially down, I can grab the top of the window and it will move up and down and to the side a little bit. Just a fraction of an inch or so, but enough that maybe while it's seated in the track when it's all the way up, that little bit of movement is occurring when I hit bumps.

I'll post an update after they're done once I'm able to confirm it corrected the issue.
 
Please let me know what they say. I'm bringing mine in in mid Jan for servicing and want to show them the different solutions posted on this forum as they can't seem to figure it out themselves. Thanks.
Just got home from the dealership and hallelujah, the noises are gone! They replaced the run channel (part 72275-TG7-A02) and the weatherstripping (part 72275-TG7-A02). Exact wording from the invoice was: "Found that the run channel and weather stripping was bad and not totally fitting correctly".

After leaving the dealership, I drove through a nearby park that has rough roads and some dirt/gravel areas. Not a peep from the area the sound had been coming from.

Dealership I went to was Germain Honda of Beavercreek. Service manager's name was Bill.
 
I had the same sound at top of drivers window. It was easy to find by pressing in on top chrome strip of door from the outside. I adjusted the strike plate in just a fuzz. I could move it way in but it would recenter back out as I tightened the screws. It reduced the noise when pressing from outside in half and I haven't heard it inside in days. I pushed on the outside of passenger door and it doesn't move or have any noise. Just seems to be an alignment issue with the driver door.
 
I had the same sound at top of drivers window. It was easy to find by pressing in on top chrome strip of door from the outside. I adjusted the strike plate in just a fuzz. I could move it way in but it would recenter back out as I tightened the screws. It reduced the noise when pressing from outside in half and I haven't heard it inside in days. I pushed on the outside of passenger door and it doesn't move or have any noise. Just seems to be an alignment issue with the driver door.
How did you adjust the strike plate? Easy job?
 
I am having similar issues. My drivers window started making screeching noises every time I lowered it or pulled it all the way back up. So it seemed to be catching something on the way down and hitting it on the way up. (Top left corner if you were facing the driver window from the inside). Service mech said he lubed it, whatever that means. Well that sound did stop but then I noticed when the window was lowered partially that any bump in the road caused it to rattle. I can physically grab the window and move it left and right. No other window does this. Its loose. Im going back to the dealer again. I don't play around with cars. In my country/state they have three times to fix it or I call lemon. I won a lemon law against a Mopar twice. Once with an attorney on a new 2012 charger that kept grinding off the front right wheel bearing, and a second without a lawyer on a 2016 Jeep Wrangler unlimited that leaked through the roof every time it rained. If you have been to the dealer 5 times I would explore this route. The argument is simple. You didn't buy a new vehicle to be at the repair shop with it constantly. You have lost confidence and are scared you bought yourself a constant repair bill after warranty expires. In my cases I was given $9,000 on the charger and the lawyer kept 3k. I used the 6k and traded for a 13 accord that my wife still drives. The jeep was bought back by the OEM. So basically the way the Federal Lemon Law goes they have three attempts to fix the same issue and they either owe you money, another vehicle, or to buy back yours at no loss to you.
 
..

On a side note, I also noticed if the window is partially down, I can grab the top of the window and it will move up and down and to the side a little bit. Just a fraction of an inch or so, but enough that maybe while it's seated in the track when it's all the way up, that little bit of movement is occurring when I hit bumps.

I'll post an update after they're done once I'm able to confirm it corrected the issue.
AFAIK...windows are supposed to loosely rested on X-rails to accommodates curves design of vehicles.

Ever seen a vehicle's window rail fail and the glass drop to one side ?? :grin:

.. I can physically grab the window and move it left and right. No other window does this. Its loose. Im going back to the dealer again.

see my observation above...ALL cars windows have play travels !! :nerd:the glass only sit loosely within the guiding rails !! :nerd:

my side note...

perhaps because I have rain guards and it helps with the tightness...I'm like in a vacuum/underwater when all windows are up !!...even when it's down...it would take a major pothole for mine to make any disturbing noises. :grin:
 
AFAIK...windows are supposed to loosely rested on X-rails to accommodates curves design of vehicles.

Ever seen a vehicle's window rail fail and the glass drop to one side ?? :grin:




see my observation above...ALL cars windows have play travels !! :nerd:the glass only sit loosely within the guiding rails !! :nerd:

my side note...

perhaps because I have rain guards and it helps with the tightness...I'm like in a vacuum/underwater when all windows are up !!...even when it's down...it would take a major pothole for mine to make any disturbing noises. :grin:
No other window has play in my vehicle. No window should have enough play so that it rattles when going over bumps. I have never experienced a rattling window in a new vehicle.
 
Just got home from the dealership and hallelujah, the noises are gone! They replaced the run channel (part 72275-TG7-A02) and the weatherstripping (part 72275-TG7-A02). Exact wording from the invoice was: "Found that the run channel and weather stripping was bad and not totally fitting correctly".

After leaving the dealership, I drove through a nearby park that has rough roads and some dirt/gravel areas. Not a peep from the area the sound had been coming from.

Dealership I went to was Germain Honda of Beavercreek. Service manager's name was Bill.
Just wondering if you can confirm the part numbers as they are both the same for the channel and weather stripping.
 
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