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1st gen Ridgeline subwoofer upgrade behind the seat! HUGE difference!

10K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  09 Ridgey  
#1 ·
Like most, my biggest complaint with driving a 1st gen Ridgeline over 10 years later is the technology. Mostly the lack of Android Auto for better navigation. I purchased a Sony XAV-AX8000 which replaced my factory navigation and looks like it was always meant to be there. This also meant getting bled by Honda for the single DIN storage tray / trim around the hazard button. I had a shop install the head unit so I don't know a lot about the wiring of it. I do know that a Maestro unit was able to save my steering wheel controls. Well... at least 5 of the buttons. I programed volume to volume, mode to pause, up to next song, and down to voice.

Anyways, the shop and I had a miscommunication and they installed the amp and a sub under the rear seat which I was livid about, because when I go to the race track, the farm, or go shooting, I throw all kinds of bags and crap back there. I kept their wiring to the battery, but removed the amp and sub. I bought an Alpine PWE-S8 which is a powered sub, so no amp is required. I removed the factory sub and its housing as it was taking up a lot of space. I used a bunch of industrial velcro and a couple self tapping screws to mount the Alpine in more of less the same location. Then reinstalled the seat.

This was actually amazing timing, since the shop had broken one of the pullies for the seat bar (to make it fold up) so I had to remove the rear seat to install the new upgraded metal pullies from Honda anyways. We tested the sub before reinstalling the rear seat. There's a phase button, but mine was fine out of the box. I think we set the level to about a 7/10 and I can't remember what we set the bypass at. The Sony unit has its own EQ capabilities so I wasn't super worried about dialing it in just right. I listed to a lot of genres of music, so depending on the producer, the EQ may be a little off, so I used a variety of songs to dial it in. Anyways... it sounds amazing. It's much fuller and punchier than the factory unit and keeps the vehicle looking totally stock. I ended up replacing my door speakers too which was somewhat of a nightmare using those crappy spacer brackets, but the factory speakers were literally paper. Most were torn up bad.

I love it though. Now I get in the truck. Android auto automatically connects, starts playing Spotify wherever I dropped off last, and opens google maps. The voice features are nice. The display feels good to touch, and looks factory. With glare, i keep the brightness maxed out, and at night you can hold down the middle button to turn the display off if you want.

These are such simple trucks, but in a good way. They're timeless. A coworker and I went to lunch and he thought it was a new vehicle and asked when I bought it, but it's a 2008. He couldn't believe it. It looks and feels pretty modern inside now. Highly recommend upgrading your sound/entertainment to keep your old vehicle relevant and feeling fresh. Why buy a new vehicle when you can drive a paid off and still highly reliable one and just upgrade a couple features?

Anyways, here's some photos of the sub install behind the seat. It fit very well and costs around $350. You'll need a wiring kit to go to the battery and there's a way to make it work with a factory head unit too. So no matter what your set up, it's a great upgrade!

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And here's a really bad picture of the stereo installed. Don't mind the cracked windshield from the storm lol.
But like I said, looks pretty much factory.

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#2 ·
Things that make me go hmmm. I might have to build up a wish list for my 2008 RTS. Some of those features sound... interesting. ;)

How did you decide on that new sub? On that new head unit?
 
#4 ·
Honestly I'm a huge Sony fan and have used their products a long time. My dad worked in electronics and ran an up scale company for many years and always trusted Sony products. They're also one of the only options for wireless android auto currently. They have wireless apple carplay too, however you have to use this little gps receiver that mounts to the dash for it to work. Android you're just good to go. Either way, it can be done.

Saw amazing reviews on the sub and knew Alpine had an excellent reputation for amps and subs especially back in the day. For the price, $350, nothing else really compared and it paid off!
 
#3 ·
That headunit isn't a XAV-AX8000, those are larger screens that sit propped away from the dash to allow the larger size. It looks like you put in a XAV-AX6000, which I also just installed and couldn't be happier.

I'm looking at subs now, I'm leaning towards 1 10" sub in a SubThump box. Leaning towards powering that and my door speakers (component in front, coaxial in rear) with a 5-channel amp.
 
#5 ·
That headunit isn't a XAV-AX8000, those are larger screens that sit propped away from the dash to allow the larger size. It looks like you put in a XAV-AX6000, which I also just installed and couldn't be happier.

I'm looking at subs now, I'm leaning towards 1 10" sub in a SubThump box. Leaning towards powering that and my door speakers (component in front, coaxial in rear) with a 5-channel amp.
You're unfortunately very limited for subs if you want to keep the factory location. A powered compact sub is your best bet. I would probably recommend pairing a head unit with a high internal fuse rating with a mini 4 channel amp to power the door speakers. It would sound great and keep the factory look. If the rating of your head unit's fuse is high enough, I think it allows you to tap into the head unit's power instead of running separate power to the battery which is nice. Then only your sub would require running power up to the battery. Just makes the setup a little simpler and maximizes your storage space in the back.
 
#8 · (Edited)
I know this is months late but I determined that the Ridgeline can accommodate up to 3 Kicker Hideaways behind the back seat. I originally installed my HS8 in the factory location and while I was in the process of deciding if I should engineer a sub I found a used HS10 for about 1/2 Price. I installed it on the drivers side corner and just plugged the harness from the HS8 into it. There was a noticeable increase in output. The following week I split the inputs and power wire to power both. I used the HS8’s remote to basically tune the 8 in or out. It’s a bit too much in the 40-70 range, the units are crossed over at 50Hz and my mid basses at 70Hz. Output below 30 is, well not much. It whimpers at 25 and is silent at 20. I am installing a JBL 4086 DSP amp soon and that will allow me to tune the bass much better. The dumbasses at Kenwood left the lowest frequency for the equalizer at 63…. The new amp will be able to adjust 20-25-31, 40, and 50. I will do a sweep and some SPL tests after I get it tuned and report back. It’s basically a cop out method but for the limited money and time it really does sound amazing.