[Heli ATP]

I'm having trouble getting my PAC SWI-RC steering wheel control to work...

What exactly is your problem?
I had problems with mine as well. The instructions called for a pink wire where I had a brown one. I had to reprogram it a couple of time to get the settings to take. The website for the PAC SWI-RC has good instructions if you input your model, year, etc. They have good customer service and the guy on the phone talked me through a few things. If I had a do-over I would get the Metra Axxess steering wheel control instead as it self programs. Otherwise I love my Kenwood setup.

There are a few threads on this site that may help if you use the search feature.
Here is one...

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...37-pac-swi-rc-steering-control-questions.html

 

[JakiChan]

So mine is installed and mostly working fine. I've had this one glitch though: CarPlay seems to "crash". It'll be playing music fine and just stop. Then CarPlay seems to die. If I unplug the phone and plug it back in then it comes back. But then it also has lost the settings for the Xover. Not the settings for the EQ or anything, just the settings for the Xover. It's the weirdest thing.

 

[decoy562]

What exactly is your problem?
I had problems with mine as well. The instructions called for a pink wire where I had a brown one. I had to reprogram it a couple of time to get the settings to take. The website for the PAC SWI-RC has good instructions if you input your model, year, etc. They have good customer service and the guy on the phone talked me through a few things. If I had a do-over I would get the Metra Axxess steering wheel control instead as it self programs. Otherwise I love my Kenwood setup.

There are a few threads on this site that may help if you use the search feature.
Here is one...

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...37-pac-swi-rc-steering-control-questions.html

Thanks! I followed their instructions on their website, and I believe I have everything wired up correctly. I'll do some more research and may have to call them...

 

[Heli ATP]

Depending who you get on the line when you call, sometimes they will only talk with approved installers. I told them I was about to return the part but was giving them one chance to fix my problem and make me a happy customer. I also called on a Sunday when I would expect the lowest call volume. I had my tester available and was asked to check voltage at certain connections, which led to a quick result. YMMV.

 

[JakiChan]

So I'm on my second unit with the same glitches so it's software. CarPlay crashes and somehow takes out my Xover settings which is odd. (Restoring them is easy.) I'm pretty happy with it otherwise so far. The entire system sounds great.

I do notice that your unit is installed much more "recessed" than mine is, and I kinda like that. Mine is sticking out a little bit. You have the top of the unit about flush with the top of the kit and mine isn't like that at all. (Suppose I should add a pic or something.) I certainly couldn't fix it, I might ask them to "slide it back" more, but I don't know if things are a tight fit or what. Or maybe I shouldn't care and just enjoy it.

BTW for Steering Wheel control I did the iDatalink Maestro RR. Getting the gauges on the HU is pretty badass. I can check battery voltage. Helped me figure out I needed a new battery. (Northstar FTW.)

 

[Heli ATP]

I do notice that your unit is installed much more "recessed" than mine is, and I kinda like that. Mine is sticking out a little bit. You have the top of the unit about flush with the top of the kit and mine isn't like that at all. (Suppose I should add a pic or something.) I certainly couldn't fix it, I might ask them to "slide it back" more, but I don't know if things are a tight fit or what. Or maybe I shouldn't care and just enjoy it.

BTW for Steering Wheel control I did the iDatalink Maestro RR. Getting the gauges on the HU is pretty badass. I can check battery voltage. Helped me figure out I needed a new battery. (Northstar FTW.)

Not sure if this is what you need but the DNX893S has screen angle tilt memory. When you power up the unit press the furthermost button to the right. Select number 1 and press memory.
Surprising about you getting the gauges on the HU. Cool.

 

[JakiChan]

Not sure if this is what you need but the DNX893S has screen angle tilt memory. When you power up the unit press the furthermost button to the right. Select number 1 and press memory.
Surprising about you getting the gauges on the HU. Cool.

Not really. See the attached image. Basically, at "0", the top of the screen sticks out past the kit. Yours is recessed more and I think I like the look of that better.

Sadly replacing the unit didn't fix my problems, and reading on the Kenwood forums I'm not the only one.

Yes, the gauges are very cool. Also, see attached.

 

[Heli ATP]

Mine sticks out at 0 also. I used the Metra 95-7870G — Trim Kit provided by Crutchfield with my DNX893S HU purchase and keep the tilt on 1 with the memory function. In the past I used a Scosche Trim kit for my DNX9990HD and that fit well too.
You can see pics of the latter in my other thread.

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...ctronics/44250-kenwood-dnx9990hd-install.html

Now I got to work on the gauges

 

[Heli ATP]

I've had a few questions about the wiring for the PAC-SWI with the DNX893S. Where a pink wire is called for in pin 16 of the civic24 connector, there is a Red/Green wire in its place. At least this is true for my '14SE and it seems the 2012 RTL also. Here are some prep notes from my install that may help.

 

[JakiChan]

Mine sticks out at 0 also. I used the Metra 95-7870G — Trim Kit provided by Crutchfield with my DNX893S HU purchase and keep the tilt on 1 with the memory function.

Yours seems way more recessed than mine. They said they can do it to mine if I go in for a bit. I will do that when I go in for the final tune. They want me to come back in about 3 months once I've broken the speakers in.

 

[Heli ATP]

I got the panel off and saw that one of the white plastic clips was broken. But oddly, I found a spare on the floor. (Which worries me which clip they didn't put back in. I haven't found any other lose panels.) Anyway, I took the "spare" clip (uh oh) and used it to replace the broken one on the kick board/panel and snapped it back in but it didn't seem to help. It's "loose" towards the front of the car. Dunno if that's normal or not.
.

Re drivers side floor board...
I snapped off my driver side door floor board and took a pic for you. Mine has just two clips but towards the front there are pieces that clip into the kick panel ahead of the floor board. If these pieces are not lined up just right they may bend and stick up rather than snap together. As for the spare clip, just hold on to it and if you hear a rattle in the future you can see if its the cause. A lot of those clips are available at AutoZone or Advance Auto. You can also get them rather cheaply on ebay.

 

[Heli ATP]

Yes, the gauges are very cool. Also, see attached.

I've been researching 'getting the gauges'. Chrutchfield says it's not an option for the 2014 Ridgeline. Any input appreciated.

iDatalink Maestro ADS-MRR Interface Module Connect a new stereo and retain the steering wheel audio controls and factory amps in select Ford, GM, Chrysler, Toyota, and VW vehicles at Crutchfield.com

 

[JakiChan]

I've been researching 'getting the gauges'. Chrutchfield says it's not an option for the 2014 Ridgeline. Any input appreciated.

Crutchfield appears to be wrong.

SEARCH RESULTS FOR Honda 2014 Ridgeline Factory Navigation

I chose those results because your RL had factory nav. Mine doesn't. You need the RR version to get gauges.

 

[Heli ATP]

Crutchfield appears to be wrong.

SEARCH RESULTS FOR Honda 2014 Ridgeline Factory Navigation

I chose those results because your RL had factory nav. Mine doesn't. You need the RR version to get gauges.

Thanks for the clarification.
I contacted iDatalink asking for one module to cover my 2014 with the DNX893s which would keep the HFL (hands free link) steering wheel buttons and a remote start. A new product will be released in spring of 2017.
Here is the response...

Thank you for contacting us. First of all, we do not offer a solution that would do both remote start and radio features. It is 2 different systems.
For remote start, I would recommend our HC remote starter. We have multiple iteration depending on where you are located. Please send me your zip code/postal code so I can refer you to an installer in your area.

For the radio replacement, we do offer a solution using our ADS_MRR module that would retain your steering wheel controls, but we do not support the factory voice command at the moment. Meaning, the button will work on your steering wheel, but you will have to install the aftermarket microphone that comes with the Kenwood radio.

We are currently working on a solution that would retain everything, but I believe the release date has been pushed to the spring of 2017 for manufacturing reason.

If you want to stay up to date on the release of this solution, please subscribe to our newsletter from maestro.idatalink.com.

Have a nice day,

Louis-Gil Levert | Customer Experience Manager
Automotive Data Solutions Inc.
8400 Bougainville, Montreal, Quebec H4P 2G1 Canada

 

[JakiChan]

I specifically bought an RTL without Navi, so I don't have those buttons. I got the right RR module and had the long press of the mode button mapped to voice command. I don't have "place call" or "hang up" mapped to anything. The other buttons are "stock", but the long press of the volume down does a mute.

 

[Pythag]

HeliATP,

Which steps of https://www.handa-accessories.com/ridgeline/backupcamera.pdf have to be done to route a wire through the hole behind the left rear seat as in your last photo? I'm trying to run from a new head unit to a new backup camera mounted on the tag holder.

Thanks,


Luke

Here is the cable routing for the rear view cam. The yellow on the bottom left corner of the rear wall. The hole was already there and the camera came with a grommet that fit nicely in that hole. The hole above that one is the wires for my DIY tailgate lock. The larger cable roll on top is for the rear lights etc.
View attachment 255426


http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...142777-g1-keeping-aux-input-new-radio-hu.html

 

[Heli ATP]

If you remove the rear seat and the bed panels you will see the hole where I passed the wire with the yellow tape on it. If there is a black rubber grommet in the hole remove it. Put a hole in the grommet for the wire to pass through and replace. Then run the wire down the left side to the tailgate and replace the bed panels.

From the head unit I ran the wire behind the pedals and under the left floor boards {inside the doors} and through the rear wall, along the left bed side and followed other wire going into the tailgate. Where the wire might be damaged I used wire loom.

I remember looking at the Handa instruction for parts reference. Since my camera didn't need power from the rear lights I didn't have to remove the light, the bumper, or mess with the control box under the seat. Sounds like your camera will plug into the back of your new HU too.

Consider changing out your tailgate handle for one with a hole for the camera. I think it's a neater install.

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...camera-tailgate-handle.html?44256=#post638421

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...round-tailgate-hinge.html?113970=#post1663490

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...ronics/17513-aftermarket-camera-can-done.html

Good Luck with your install.

 

[Pythag]

I finished it yesterday using the supplied license plate camera mount. I used the power off the head unit and followed the same wire route.

Thanks!


Luke

If you remove the rear seat and the bed panels you will see the hole where I passed the wire with the yellow tape on it. If there is a black rubber grommet in the hole remove it. Put a hole in the grommet for the wire to pass through and replace. Then run the wire down the left side to the tailgate and replace the bed panels.

From the head unit I ran the wire behind the pedals and under the left floor boards {inside the doors} and through the rear wall, along the left bed side and followed other wire going into the tailgate. Where the wire might be damaged I used wire loom.

I remember looking at the Handa instruction for parts reference. Since my camera didn't need power from the rear lights I didn't have to remove the light, the bumper, or mess with the control box under the seat. Sounds like your camera will plug into the back of your new HU too.

Consider changing out your tailgate handle for one with a hole for the camera. I think it's a neater install.

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...camera-tailgate-handle.html?44256=#post638421

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...round-tailgate-hinge.html?113970=#post1663490

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...ronics/17513-aftermarket-camera-can-done.html

Good Luck with your install.

 

[Heli ATP]

Installed and amp and sub behind the rear seat. Replaced the PAC SWI-RC steering wheel control with the iDatalink Maestro control module which adds gauges on the HU. The Amplifier is the Kenwood class D 5 channel KAC-M8005. The SubWoofer is the Rocford Fosgate 8" in a home made box. The stock sub worked fine but I couldn't take the pop from the Boss amp anymore. Now if I could only understand the settings on the amp... HPF, LPF Input Sensitivity etc????

 

[Jxslepton]

Here is the cable routing for the rear view cam. The yellow on the bottom left corner of the rear wall.

Prob a dumb question but I saw you comment in another thread you ran the wire underneath the truck. What exactly is the “rear wall” referring to?