Could it be the timing belt tensioner making that noise? I have heard that sound on many videos.

Is there a check engine light? You may want to pull the front left and middle front plugs, but if you had the the cylinder 4/5 issue I would expect a cel

 

No, there is no CEL...

 

Very unusual problem. Sorry to hear of this issue.

What have you done post video? Have you pulled the plugs to check color and condition (not that I think it's a spark plug issue... but might give some indication of engine health).

Do all fluids appear normal? (any froth on the oil or tranny dipstick? Color and odor seem normal? How about after it cools down... is the coolant to the top in the radiator and a nice pretty blue color?

I'm not sure if the P0139 code is related or not.
https://www.autocodes.com/p0139_honda.html

 

So I went and checked the oil. Somehow I was well over a quart low. I am kind of worried now because the truck doesn't leak oil as far as I know and I just changed the oil when I got the truck about two months ago. I filled it up to the top of the dip stick and it starts but doesn't seem to be running quite right and smoking quite a bit. Now I have more question....
1. Does it have some sort of low oil shut off?
2. Why didn't the low oil light come on?
3. If it's not leaking oil... then I guess it must be burning oil....right?

 

What color smoke? White smoke is likely coolant related... ie, head gasket. Blue smoke is likely oil related... could be worn rings, cylinder, etc.

Do you know anything about the maintenance history on the truck?

FYI, Honda automatic fluid checks are different than conventional automatics. With Honda, you check the fluid level within 60-90 seconds of shutdown. You do not check it while idling in Park or Neutral as you will get a high reading causing you to underfill the tranny.

And how much oil did you have to add to bring it to the full line?

We need more info.

 

Pulled the spark plugs and the back 3 were coated in oil...
When i added the oil it was a little over 2qts.
The coolant looks good, and the transmission fluid looks good.

 

Gosh, I have so many thoughts/questions I'm about to explode.

1. I initially clicked on the thread because the title led me to believe it was about a person dying while driving. (Morbid, I know.)

2. That engine sounds bad. Really bad.

3. Only 84K on a 13-14 year-old vehicle? There's the problem - insufficient mileage! Are you sure 84K is the actual mileage and someone didn't install a new instrument cluster 84K miles ago and fail to transfer the odometer reading?

4. Not all DTC's will illuminate the MIL.

5. It's interesting that when you revved then engine then snapped the throttle shut the engine died without even trying to increase idle speed to prevent a stall.

6. The engine doesn't appear to be shaking in your video. If a cylinder was misfiring due to a bad coil, it should still run without stalling, but you should see it shaking.

7. A timing check, compression check, and leak-down test would be next for me.

8. I wouldn't attempt to run the engine until the timing, belt, and tensioner can be inspected. If the belt is loose and slips, things could get even worse.

 

1. OK.....
2. Yes it does...
3. The OBDII reader confirms the millage. So I don't think the odometer has been tampered with. I do think the truck was sitting for a long time.
4. good to know
5. After I added the oil the engine will not die after revving.
6. It doesn't shake but it seems to knock a little. I'll post a new video after the compression test.
7. The compression test is next up. My understanding is that if the compression is good... then it means a problem with the valves?
8. I will be checking the belt and tensioner as well.

Thanks for reading and posting. I really hope I can get these issues worked out.

 

Hey Guys,
So I had this happen about a week and a half ago...
https://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/threads/died-while-driving.218462/
Tonight I checked the timing marks using the holes in the timing covers and they looked good. So I proceed with the compression test.
I've never found a definitive picture for the cylinder numbers so I'll just use this...

According to this chart all the cylinders except for #2 were around 110 or 120.
#2 was at 85-90...
So given my previous thread what are your thoughts?
Thanks

(Moderator note: threads merged)

 

Well, you've definitely got an outlier with #2, so now the question is why.

Safe to assume you tested 'dry' (without introducing any oil into the cylinder)? Focusing on cylinder 2, a 'wet' test may give more info, a leakdown test listening for sounds indicative of air leakage at intake, exhaust, sump, and coolant/radiator even better.

IMO you (should) now know you've got a definite problem internal to the engine. Not meaning to presume too much but based on your posts it may now be time to get a competent and experienced mechanic involved to help cut to the chase insofar as a solid diagnosis. Methinks it'll be difficult to make real and meaningful progress in that direction seeking step-by-step guidance from afar when we can't see and hear exactly what is going on.

IF, for example, it were something as 'easy' as a blown head gasket (though not likely between cylinders given your result) that would still beg the question 'why' (head warp? And if yes, why did that happen?) and is it likely you would attempt the full assessment and repair yourself? I suspect not, so might as well get the mechanic involved now.

If I'm wrong (it's just a guess from afar) and you're competent to undertake that sort of work, please accept my apology.

Just one long-distance opinion, sorry for the situation, wishing you the best of luck.

 

First of all thanks for the input. I really do appreciate the people who take the time to try to help out.
Yes, the test was dry. I'll be doing a wet test here shortly. I guess my goal was to narrow down the issue. If I could narrow it down to an issue with the valves I would feel comfortable taking off the head and having it repaired at a shop. I don't think I would try to do anything with the rings though.
I still don't understand why the other plugs would be coated in oil though if only the middle one is having compression issues...

 

The below is from the 2009-2013 Factory Service Manual. Someone else will have to say whether older Ridgeline engines have a different compression spec (I doubt it, but it could be). Note that when I do a compression test, I unplug the injector wiring harness(es) because I don't normally have factory diagnostic computers like the HDS to shut down the fuel system for the test.

Engine Compression Inspection

NOTE: After the inspection, you must reset the PCM. Otherwise, the PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from operating.

1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (cooling fan comes on).

2. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).

3. Connect the HDS to the DLC (see step 2 on page 11-3).

4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).

5. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the PCM. If it does not communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit (see page 11-207).

6. Select ALL INJECTORS STOP in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu with the HDS.

7. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).

8. Remove the six ignition coils and the six spark plugs (see page 4-19).

9. Attach the compression gauge to a spark plug hole.

10. Step on the accelerator pedal to open the throttle fully, then crank the engine with the starter motor, and measure the compression.

Compression Pressure:
930 kPa (9.5 kgf/cm2, 135 psi)

11. Measure the compression on the remaining cylinders. Maximum Variation:

Within 200 kPa (2.0 kgf/cm2, 28 psi)

12. If the compression is not within specifications, check the following items, then remeasure the compression.

• Incorrect valve clearance
• Confirmation of cam timing
• Damaged or worn cam lobes
• Damaged or worn valves and seats
• Damaged cylinder head gasket
• Damaged or worn piston rings
• Damaged or worn piston and cylinder bore

13. Remove the compression gauge from the spark plug hole.

14. Install the six spark plugs and the six ignition coils (see page 4-19).

15. Select PCM reset (see page 11-4) in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu to cancel ALL INJECTORS STOP with the HDS.

 

Definitely something awry with that #2 cylinder, but it may not be the actual cause of your issues. It could be the end result of the cause. It's down on compression, but not terribly so. So, I'm thinking there is probably something going on with the valves or possibly the piston rings. Being that most of these things would allow oil to enter the combustion chamber, that would explain the smoke and low oil condition. Unfortunately, it appears as though you've bought a truck that had an issue. I'm really hoping the original owner, dealership or car lot didn't know about this problem and still sold the truck to you. Kinda hard to prove that, though. Hoping you get to a conclusion soon, but it doesn't sound easy or cheap.

 

Looks pretty much like the same process and numbers from the 2006-2008 FSM.

 

So, compression is down ~15% from factory spec across the board (assuming you did the test on a hot engine, as specified and normal for compression tests?), but it’s pretty even so that’s good. The one hole is down ~25% from the others, though. That’s a problem. It’s down ~35% from factory spec, which is enough to make it not fire reliably at idle at least, and it may not pull much when the throttle is open.

You have oil on the plugs on the bank with the low-compression hole, right? That could be coincidence or it could be a second symptom of the underlying issue.

The sound of the engine in the vid is not good.

Check the items in the list that speed and I both posted, then re-run the compression test. I have suspicions, but they’re just suspicions and what you’d do to check is pretty well the same anyway.

 

Worry about the non conformity of the one cylinder rather than the overall numbers for compression. The gauge, the test conditions and the test method will all affect the numbers produced and comparing them to a factory spec is problematic. Its doubtful that all his cylinders wore out evenly (save one) . However, comparing them to each other should provide valuable information unless the technique was flawed on the outlier cylinder. . .

Its pretty obvious that there is a major issue with the engine. Whether it is limited to the cylinder head only or includes the bottom end seems to be what Mr Mash is pondering.

A wet compression test or a leak down test might help to narrow it down as might and inspection with a borascope. The engine has relatively low miles on it so if the bottom end is OK then a rebuilt head could be a good option. Unfortunately it will take some effort and probably $ to conclusively figure out what the problem(s) is. I would certainly start looking for a decent used engine. If a good option is available it might just be smoother sailing just to have it put in . . .

 

Thanks again for all the input guys. I plan on removing the back head as soon as I get some time and seeing what I can see. After some discussion with many people I am kind of leaning towards a blown head gasket as the cause of my issues. It seems to be able to explain all of my issues. I'll post my findings as they come up.
Thanks

 

If that is the case, I would have to wonder what caused the blown HG. Will be curious to find out your results.

 

OK, here's a quick update. I've been working on it on and off as I have enough time and tonight I got the valve cover off and... eesh... see for yourself.

So... I don't know if this tells me anything other than the oil was very sludgy. Any ideas?
Maybe the dirty oil caused the valve stem seals to fail?
Thanks

 

Looking at that, makes me wonder if a 5 minute Flush or Diesel Fuel flush (old school) would improve anything at all. One of these days I'm going to pull a valve cover, maybe at 15yrs or 20 yrs of ownership

 

That is not pretty.

 

Understatement.

Is that 'sludge' actually oil emulsified with a small amount of water??

No way I'd make a guess based on that ugly scene alone - very sorry for your woes, mashmash.

 

Is sludge like that a function of poor maintenance? Improper oil spec? Other?

 

Definitely ugly. There's several different things going through my head as to what could have caused that from a broken valve seal to moisture infiltration to the wrong oil weight used to shear neglect. No matter what though, you have a mess on your hands. You'd almost be better off getting a brand new head at this point rather than trying to clean and rebuild that one. I'd fathom a guess that the low compression readings you're getting from the middle cylinder is likely a bad valve seal and the piston rings are still just fine. Sorry this has happened to you, but it appears that the original owner of this truck didn't treat it as nicely as he/she should have.

 

Oh, dear...

Overheat could contribute to that nasty residue, as could former coolant in the oil. Those two often go together. A long-term malfunctioning PCV valve can also contribute to that. The PCV system in the J-35 is good, so it’d be a bad valve not a design problem like various engines have had in years past.

That can be cleaned up, but diesel fuel or kerosene in the crankcase of a running engine is never a good idea, IMO. Apart from it destroying the oil’s anti-wear properties, it can dislodge chunks which then can block small oil passages.

Clean it off the block, or use Auto-RX. I’ve done both, and both work well and safely. The scene under the other valve cover may be similar. If it is NOT similar, though, then I think the issue is a failed HG + overheat on that bank.

 

So here's the big update...
I FINALLY got the head off. It took a bit long that I thought, but I got it done and I don't even think I broke anything besides one rusty catalytic converter nut. Here's what I found...

Here's my questions and or thoughts for you guys.
1. From what I can tell, this seems like good news. The cylinder walls look to be in very good shape I can't see any grooves or scoring at. I know the pictures don't show that very well, but this leads me to believe the issue is not with the piston rings or block. Would you agree?
2. The bad news is that the head gasket looks fine to me.

No cracks, or obvious spots I can see where it failed.
3. The valves look pretty bad. To me I am leaning towards the oil getting in from the valve seats or guides or both. Also the tops of the piston looks bad, but I think that's just burned oil collecting on them.
From here my current plan is to take the head to a local shop and have it reconditioned and hope that they can confirm my hypothesis of the root of my problem.
Thanks for all the input. I really do appreciate you guys taking the time to give me your thoughts and suggestions.

 

Thank you for the pictures, @MASHMASH. I have enjoyed following this thread. Hope the shop has good news for you.

 

@MASHMASH do you have any plans to open up the bottom and oil pump area and change the gaskets, with the timing belt off. I only suggest it as we’ve had a few oil leak issues and specifically the oil pan gasket can only be done when the timing belt is off. But I know it requires other items moved/removed. Thinking about the pictures you posted earlier the various other things listed below maybe worth opening, cleaning and installing new gaskets as time allows.

Oil Pump Reseal (Pictures)

Weak Oil Leak/Smell fixed w/ PCV replacement & VTEC Solenoid Valve Leak Solved

PCV Valve Maintenance/Replacement/Install/Problem

Of coarse can’t find oil pan leak threads that are recently posted

Oil Pan Leak

Oil Pan Gasket Replacement Questions

 

@MASHMASH do you have any plans to open up the bottom and oil pump area and change the gaskets, with the timing belt off. I only suggest it as we’ve had a few oil leak issues and specifically the oil pan gasket can only be done when the timing belt is off. But I know it requires other items moved/removed. Thinking about the pictures you posted earlier the various other things listed below maybe worth opening, cleaning and installing new gaskets as time allows.

Oil Pump Reseal (Pictures)

Weak Oil Leak/Smell fixed w/ PCV replacement & VTEC Solenoid Valve Leak Solved

PCV Valve Maintenance/Replacement/Install/Problem

Of coarse can’t find oil pan leak threads that are recently posted

Oil Pan Leak

Oil Pan Gasket Replacement Questions

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll do some more research on the oil pan and pump seals and probably some inspection. However I went and checked my PCV valve and...

I cleaned it up with some carb cleaner, but also added it to my shopping list on rockauto since it seems to be made out of plastic and carb cleaner eats plastic.

 

I read threads like this in awe and admiration. Back in my 20's I might have attempted things like this with a mechanic looking over my shoulder. Now that I am older and wiser, I wouldn't dream of attempting some of this without the mechanic there.
Thanks for posting your endeavors @MASHMASH they give me a much better appreciation of what is going on under my hood. Thanks to the others that are making constructive comments.

Maybe one day I will accept that I've potentially got a bunch of mechanics here on ROC that can be looking over my shoulder via the internet and might try pushing my boundaries on what I'll attempt. I've got a few years to go before my next timing belt change is due.

 

I read threads like this in awe and admiration. Back in my 20's I might have attempted things like this with a mechanic looking over my shoulder. Now that I am older and wiser, I wouldn't dream of attempting some of this without the mechanic there.
Thanks for posting your endeavors @MASHMASH they give me a much better appreciation of what is going on under my hood. Thanks to the others that are making constructive comments.

Maybe one day I will accept that I've potentially got a bunch of mechanics here on ROC that can be looking over my shoulder via the internet and might try pushing my boundaries on what I'll attempt. I've got a few years to go before my next timing belt change is due.

Well, this is by far the biggest project I've gotten myself into on a car. My attitude is that if I can watch a video on someone else doing it, then I am pretty confident I can do it too. I've know a few mechanics, and no disrespect to them, but they don't have magic powers. Just the right tools and the experience or instructions. I've been lucky to find a lot of good tools at garage sales, but also bit the bullet and bought some new. I would say if you have a project to do, see if you can find a video of it on youtube and then decide if it's something you want to take on. As you mentioned your timing belt, I would say go for it. There are lots of good videos out there for it and while it's not an easy job, if you have the right tools (I would highly suggest this impact wrench) it's and take your time it's not very difficult.

 

Bad news....
After taking the head to a machinist and examining it, we determined that the issue is not with the head. The valve stems look clean and the seals are so tight they hold lacquer thinner. Which leads me to the unfortunate conclusion that the rings on the center cylinder have gone bad. So at this point I am really at a cross roads of weather I should just get a used engine or if I should forge ahead and try to replace the rings and bore the cylinder.
What do you guys think?
I have no experience with either, but they both seem pretty daunting right now.

 

Remind us, did you do both a wet and dry compression test and leakdown test before pulling the head?

If the wet vs dry compression was essentially the same degree of bad on that cylinder then IMO either the problem isn't ring/cylinder related OR, if it is, the cylinder sealing situation is so bad that the 'wet' couldn't improve the seal.

Your pics above show that cylinder near TDC, correct? Can you gently rotate to BDC to allow examination of more of the cylinder bore looking for damage to the bore?

It might be possible that one or more rings is 'stuck' in the piston lands (grooves), preventing adequate cylinder-seal but somehow not having damaged the bore itself.

>>>

I know there's no evidence of oil leakage at the head gasket, but have you done the simple step to ensure that both the head and deck are 'true and flat'?

>>>

Yeah, I'm 'reaching', looking for possibilities that might be relatively easily addressed without total block reman/replacement (ring replacement is no small chore but is still short of bore machining). Yeah, looking for the 'long shot best possibility' given where you appear to be now.

PS - admitting I don't even know if this engine uses replaceable bore liners

 

Remind us, did you do both a wet and dry compression test and leakdown test before pulling the head?

If the wet vs dry compression was essentially the same degree of bad on that cylinder then IMO either the problem isn't ring/cylinder related OR, if it is, the cylinder sealing situation is so bad that the 'wet' couldn't improve the seal.

Your pics above show that cylinder near TDC, correct? Can you gently rotate to BDC to allow examination of more of the cylinder bore looking for damage to the bore?

It might be possible that one or more rings is 'stuck' in the piston lands (grooves), preventing adequate cylinder-seal but somehow not having damaged the bore itself.

I know there's no evidence of oil leakage at the head gasket, but have you done the simple step to ensure that both the head and deck are 'true and flat'?

Yeah, I'm 'reaching', looking for possibilities that might be relatively easily addressed without total block reman/replacement (ring replacement is no small chore but is still short of bore machining). Yeah, looking for the 'long shot best possibility' given where you appear to be now.

PS - admitting I don't even know if this engine uses replaceable bore liners

I only did the dry compression test. In hindsight I obviously regret not taking the time to do the wet test and a leakdown. I had convinced myself that it was the valves.
Up next is rotating the check out that middle cylinder.
We did check the head to make sure head was flat and it was.
I'll post some pictures of the cylinder and valve stems when I get a chance.

 

@MASHMASH Whats up with the green coolant that I am seeing in your block? Usually it is supposed to be blue.

Cylinder #2's piston top does look pretty caked up and so does the cylinder head. How did the lower intake runners look like? If you saw a lot of oil in the intake runners, you can presume that the PCV system was just too bad and circulated too much oil back into the intake.

I think (rumor) the '09+ models (J35Z5) had cast iron liners, while first three years had none. That is the rumor I heard :|

 

It might be heresy, but after doing some research I decided to just use generic coolant, not the Honda stuff. I know it's a polarizing issue for some people, but I just don't believe the OEM stuff is necessary.

As for the cylinder walls, they will attract a magnet, so cast iron or steel... Not really sure.