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My grandmother smoked three packs of cigarettes a day for decades and never got lung cancer during her 78 years. :)
How can someone who has never done a thing offer an accurate risk assesment of that thing based on anything other than conjecture? Also, the 3 pack a day argument vs. reusing a CW is a Strawmans logical fallacy.

Here's my logical counter-argument: The material is purposfully soft to conform to the mating surfaces, and as long as they are smooth and flat, and the washer isn't damaged, it works the 2nd and 3rd time the same way it did the first time. And if it did fail, it wouldn't be a catastrophic failure. The parts are pretty much static once installed, so if something it was going to happen, it would almost immediately, and you'd see it during your leak check. Done it many many times without issue. But I also replaced them when they look rough or are used more than 3 times - and this is only with the "flat" ones which (I suspect) are brass and are pretty thick and robust. The folded over ones that actually "crush" when you use them - I agree that they are a one-and-done deal.
 
The Honda oil drain plug system seems a bit odd. Like all the comments & advice here but other vehicles I service use a drain bolt with a rubberized integrated washer, or just a bolt with a washer built in.

The washer on the Honda system appears to get lightly torqued between the bolt & the pan, but not excessively. But there is room for leakage as the washer goes over the bolt head but is an easy slip-on fit. Perhaps the whole system is benefitted by the extra long bolt & corresponding long internal pan thread?
It also seems that with the light torque on the bolt, the washer could easily be reused a couple times…..
You bring up another point. The longer drain bolt is made that way because Honda, with their R & D wisdom realizes this is a high wear area. To add to this, aluminum is softer than steel, so more thread area is better.
Occasionally, a car would come it with a damaged oil pan. They had gone to one of those "Quickie" type oil change places that replaced the O.E. drain bolt with one made for a steel pan. They're shorter, not enough thread contact & the threads of the pan get pulled. Seen it multiple times. Guess who gets blamed?
 
Still waiting for RL but I use the OEM filter and a new crush washer on my Accord because I believe it is the safe thing to do. I also use a torque wrench to set the oil plug. I like saving money but don't want to create problems as a result. Once I've committed to slithering across the garage floor everything else is easy.
 
I replace the filter and crush washer both at every oil change.
When the oil life monitor says around 25-30% left, I change it.

About 90% of the time my vehicles get a Motomaster brand oil filter, occasionally a Napa Gold, or factory brand, depending on where its easiest for me to buy them. I generally buy 5 at a time, so no need to shop often.
Mobil 1 5w30 oil goes in them, despite what the cap says.

Ps. I don't smoke 3 packs a day, or at all...so guess I am risk adverse. ;)
 
When the oil life monitor says around 25-30% left, I change it.
Just an FYI, if you didn't know, not letting the MM hit 15% will prevent it from ever displaying other maintenance item codes. So if you are going to change at 25-30%, don't reset the MM until it hits 15%.
 
Just an FYI, if you didn't know, not letting the MM hit 15% will prevent it from ever displaying other maintenance item codes. So if you are going to change at 25-30%, don't reset the MM until it hits 15%.

Thanks for the heads up, I'll remember that when my Ridgeline arrives. Right now its my Accord and F150.
This forum has a smart bunch, and great tips.
 
Crush washer???? CRUSH WASHER!!!! You don't need no stinking crush washer. THIS makes life so much easier.

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For my next vehicle I will probably go to the updated version.....
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This would facilitate attaching the drain hose easier for a mess-less oil change.
 
Crush washer???? CRUSH WASHER!!!! You don't need no stinking crush washer. THIS makes life so much easier.

View attachment 427703

For my next vehicle I will probably go to the updated version.....
View attachment 427704

This would facilitate attaching the drain hose easier for a mess-less oil change.
Love it. Trying to figure out how I'm going to install it on my R1T.
 
Necropost to a memeber that hasn't been around in two years.
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I don't think you'll get a response.

FYI there are services and equipment recommended by some for sucking the oil out of the crank case through the dip stick tube. It's standard practice at Mercedes. Common equipment is sold by EWK and Mityvac, for example. If you search "oil extraction" you'll find plenty of examples.
 
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