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That's not good, looks like tranny line came apart from Radiator....I would not drive it.....
 
My 08 ridgeline rtx started puking red fluid out from under the radiator this morning. I took a video of it please watch and let me know what I should do.

Video:

https://youtu.be/O8Ekf-A2eZ8



Thank you and Merry Christmas!
OH MAN, so sorry that's happening - ESPECIALLY on Christmas. The fluid looks to be transmission. The area its spewing from suggests the fluid heat exchanger connections at the bottom of the radiator came apart. Search the term "SMOD" on this forum. SMOD = "strawberry milshake of death - which happens when trans fluid and engine coolant mix. That mixture is death for a transmission. You'll find lots of discussion about this problem.

The good news is: the fluid looks nice and red, as if the trans fluid hasn't mixed with engine coolant so you may have caught the problem before irreparable damage was caused. For now: don't start the engine again until you ID the source of the leak. If the issue is SMOD, simply starting the engine has potential to cause further damage. As tempting as it might be, simply starting the motor and moving the truck around in the driveway to position it for work might cause serious damage.

For visual reference, see images below. The suspected connection point are located @ the bottom radiator tank, right and left sides. You can get an eye on them from above - and may be able to stick your phone cam down there to snap a few images. Best thing is remove the splash shield and get direct eyes on the connecting ports.

With the radiator assembly out, you can see where fluid ports are



This is an image from below - drive side port taken with splash shield removed. The arrow points to the washer which is credited with many radiator failures.



Best of luck. Get back on here with what you find. Lots of folks with lots of experience can help out!
 
The good news is: the fluid looks nice and red, as if the trans fluid hasn't mixed with engine coolant so you may have caught the problem before irreparable damage was caused. For now: don't start the engine again until you ID the source of the leak. If the issue is SMOD, simply starting the engine has potential to cause further damage. As tempting as it might be, simply starting the motor and moving the truck around in the driveway to position it for work might cause serious damage.
Judging by the blood trail, the engine has already been running and that thing may already have been shot through both lungs. Unfortunately, prepare yourself. At a minimum you're looking at a new radiator, full cooling system flush, and full trannie flush. Worse case, could be new radiator, new engine and new tranny. Depending on how long it ran will determine how much you pay.
 
Judging by the blood trail, the engine has already been running and that thing may already have been shot through both lungs. Unfortunately, prepare yourself. At a minimum you're looking at a new radiator, full cooling system flush, and full trannie flush. Worse case, could be new radiator, new engine and new tranny. Depending on how long it ran will determine how much you pay.
My thought was the trans fluid didn't appear foamy or strawberry colored, so I was thinking he caught the problem before a significant amount of engine coolant was blended by the trans. That was his first post and he hasn't responded - I'm hoping he didn't do what others have described: "I kept pushing on the gas pedal but it wouldn't go".

Fingers crossed he had the truck flat bedded out of that snowy driveway. Frozen knuckle banging is no fun.
 
Agreed what is on the ground looks to be good news, but what was dripping off the fan shroud was looking pretty foamy.

Hopefully he'll enlighten us soon....I'm very curious as to the outcome.
 
That foamy fluid coming of the shroud looks like its just aerated trans fluid from a leak. I'm not seeing any signs of mixing with antifreeze. The problem looks to be limited to the transmission fluid side of the system. Of course its easy to diagnose sitting in the comfort of our living rooms not facing the bill for this one...
 
Agree with the above, change the radiator, and hopefully you've avoided any sever transmission damage

Here are most of the related Radiator and Transmission threads if you haven't found them all.

Good luck

Radiator Failure @ Cooler Lines

Best Radiator Replacement

Pictures of Corroded/Rusted Radiator Fittings

Radiator Fail on 2006

UOA on ATF

Anatomy of OEM Denso Radiator

Poll(Never Posted) on Radiator/Trans Cooler Solution

Recent Radiator/Transmission SMOD!!!

Radiator comparison: Denso/Spectra/OSC
 
Discussion starter · #11 · (Edited)
Thank you all for the thoughtful responses and wealth of information! Sorry for not giving more information in my initial post. I live in Salt Lake City, Utah and we had a good foot+ of snow in the valley and more in the mountains on Christmas day. I am a big skier and snowboarder so I was very excited... that was until all of this happened :( I started the truck for maybe 5 minutes while I cleaned all of the snow off and did not notice if it was leaking or not at that point. I pulled out of my driveway and made it maybe 500 feet down my street until I remembered I forgot to lock the house. I did a u-turn and headed back to the house to lock it up. When walking back to my car from my house I could smell something was not right. I then looked under the truck and she was bleeding really bad. I immediately turned the truck off. I then did some research on this forum and determined it was probably ATF fluid and I would need a new radiator. I turned the truck on once more to back it into my driveway so a tow truck wouldn't have any issue loading it on the flat bed. The video I took was right after I turned the truck around and shut it off. I couldn't believe how bad the leak was. I am guessing this just happened that morning because if it had happened in my previous trip I don't think there would have been any ATF fluid to spew out if the leak was that bad; plus I don't remember seeing or smelling anything prior.

I am hoping I didn't do any major damage because I really cannot afford it right now. I just had the truck in the shop last week for a routine oil change and they told me I have a small oil leak at the oil pump seal and it would cost me $1100 + to replace the ~$1 seal because they would have to take the timing belt off just to get at it. On top of that they said I need to get my valves checked/adjusted for $600. Really bad timing for me. I am thinking about just getting the radiator replaced and selling the truck this spring. I haven't made up my mind yet. Before any of this happened it has been a great truck. I bought it in 2013 with 78,XXX on it and have not had one problem. It has 128,XXX on it now.

I called around to a bunch of local shops and they all want between $550 and $650. I ended up going with the Ken Garf Honda dealer I usually get my oil changes done at because they have been very good with me thus far and wanted to use them if they came in at a reasonable price. They offered me free towing so that was nice. Looks like the tow truck just got here...



I will keep you all updated.

Thanks again!

Alex
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Just heard back from the shop. They took the radiator off and they said it has a crack in it indicating there is coolant mixed in with the ATF fluid. They said they would have to flush the coolant and ATF Fluid 3 times each per Honda warranty specs on top of replacing the radiator... this adds about 4 hours of labor costing me and extra $500! Unbelievable. If what they said is the truth, which I have no reason not to believe them, I guess I will have to bite the bullet and spend the $1200 to get it fully repaired the right way warrantied. I am kicking myself in the butt for not reading this forum as a preventive maintenance guide.

What do you guys think I should do? Pay the money or try and get a different shop to do it for cheaper?
 
That sounds a lot better price wise. I'd pay that if I wasn't such a cheap $#%^& and lived in SLC area still, rather than work on that job in the snow and cold.

Considering they paid the towing, It's about $900.

Search around because there few different threads on oil leaks some have been fortunate to solve with either a different oil or an additive IIRC. Also unsure if you've done the timing belt, if so then I'd put the oil leak off as long as possible, if not, maybe you can get it done at the same time.

That valve job price sounds high, I'd call around and see if you can find someone to do it for $300-$400, and if possible you may want to pickup the OEM Spark Plugs and have them done at the same time, if your still on the original's.

Good Luck and Keep Us Posted
 
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You bought at 78k and now are at 128k. Did you have the timing belt done at the 105k(aproximate) mark? Thats when the maintenance minder system would have sent out a code. If you have already done your timing belt and they didn't notice the oil leak (it might or might not have been present at the time) at the pump then perhaps they might help you out a bit on the price? If you haven't done the timing belt yet then you are overdue and would need to do the service some time soon anyway. $1k for the timing belt service is about $300 higher (using OEM parts and including the extra timing belt tensioner) then what I would consider a good deal. They would need to install the seal so that brings it a bit better but it completely depends on whether or not they are actually doing the full timing belt service or just pulling off the belt and fixing the seal and then reinstalling. They are WAY high if they are just doing the later! If you have already done the timing belt and just have a small leak then I would put this off till you have determined the end result of the SMOD incident. However, oil in the proximity of the timing belt is not a good thing. If the belt is actually getting oil on it then it needs to be fixed ASAP.

Valve adjustment is due but honestly can most likely wait till you can afford.

You radiator / smod issue is worriesome. Even if they do exactly what you say with the 3x dump and fill, there is no guarantee that the transmission has not been permanently damaged. Hopefully it will be OK but I wouldn't assume that the "warranty" that they are offering on the repairs means that they would cover an early transmission failure down the line. Overall, based on a few members experiences here, you have a good chance of escaping with just the new radiator and 3x dump and fill.

GOOD LUCK!
 
Discussion starter · #16 · (Edited)
That sounds a lot better price wise. I'd pay that if I wasn't such a cheap $#%^& and lived in SLC area still, rather than work on that job in the snow and cold.

Considering they paid the towing, It's about $900.

Search around because there few different threads on oil leaks some have been fortunate to solve with either a different oil or an additive IIRC. Also unsure if you've done the timing belt, if so then I'd put the oil leak off as long as possible, if not, maybe you can get it done at the same time.

That valve job price sounds high, I'd call around and see if you can find someone to do it for $300-$400, and if possible you may want to pickup the OEM Spark Plugs and have them done at the same time, if your still on the original's.

Good Luck and Keep Us Posted
This makes me feel better. I did not know about that. I will try asking them if they can use different oil with an additive IIRC next time I get it changed. I had the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump done at 110k. I wish they would have asked if I wanted to oil pump seal replaced! Ugh. Good call on the plugs. I did change them myself just over a year ago. Thanks for the help.

You bought at 78k and now are at 128k. Did you have the timing belt done at the 105k(aproximate) mark? Thats when the maintenance minder system would have sent out a code. If you have already done your timing belt and they didn't notice the oil leak (it might or might not have been present at the time) at the pump then perhaps they might help you out a bit on the price? If you haven't done the timing belt yet then you are overdue and would need to do the service some time soon anyway. $1k for the timing belt service is about $300 higher (using OEM parts and including the extra timing belt tensioner) then what I would consider a good deal. They would need to install the seal so that brings it a bit better but it completely depends on whether or not they are actually doing the full timing belt service or just pulling off the belt and fixing the seal and then reinstalling. They are WAY high if they are just doing the later! If you have already done the timing belt and just have a small leak then I would put this off till you have determined the end result of the SMOD incident. However, oil in the proximity of the timing belt is not a good thing. If the belt is actually getting oil on it then it needs to be fixed ASAP.

Valve adjustment is due but honestly can most likely wait till you can afford.

You radiator / smod issue is worriesome. Even if they do exactly what you say with the 3x dump and fill, there is no guarantee that the transmission has not been permanently damaged. Hopefully it will be OK but I wouldn't assume that the "warranty" that they are offering on the repairs means that they would cover an early transmission failure down the line. Overall, based on a few members experiences here, you have a good chance of escaping with just the new radiator and 3x dump and fill.

GOOD LUCK!
Yes, the timing belt service was completed by a Victory Honda back in Sandusky, OH at 110k. They also replaced the water pump and tensioner, but they never said anything about the oil pump / seal. Since I now live 1700 miles away from that dealer I don't think driving my truck there and back would be worth it. I really hope I am OK with the transmission. I really think I am because of how little the engine was on after the incident. Fingers crossed. It just blows my mind how Honda would design their products like this. Why not use a a separate trans cooler/heater? Or design the radiator so it has 0% chance of coolant mixing in the the ATF. I have always viewed Honda as above the pack when it comes to reliability now I am starting to get a bad taste in my mouth. Thank you!
 
It just blows my mind how Honda would design their products like this. Why not use a a separate trans cooler/heater? Or design the radiator so it has 0% chance of coolant mixing in the the ATF. I have always viewed Honda as above the pack when it comes to reliability now I am starting to get a bad taste in my mouth. Thank you!
The RL has a separate transmission cooler in front of the radiator. The part that is in question is a tranny fluid exchanger that sits inside the bottom of the radiator. Its primary function is to heat the tranny fluid as quickly as possible (using the surrounding coolant) to get the tranny to operating temp. This design is not limited to the RL or to Honda for that matter. Many other makers employ this design for all sorts of vehicles. The design itself is not at fault - it's Honda's use of material. There is a mild steel belleville washer on the fittings of the exchanger that keeps proper tension on the fittings. That washer corrodes and expands over time and causes the threads to let loose. You were just lucky enough to catch it as it happened. I think your engine and tranny will be just fine with the flushes and I would move forward with having it done. I had my radiator done by a dealer because I figured it may eventually be a recall or TSB. I wanted the documentation that it was done by a shop. I paid $150 for the aftermarket radiator and $250 in labor and coolant for the install.

As far as the oil seal goes, the shop is right that they basically have to do a timing belt removal to simply get to the pump. I had my TB service with water pump and new seals done for $710 out the door. Call around to a few different dealers to get the best price. I found prices of $700 to $1200 within a 50 mile radius. Additionally, I had a valve adjustment done a few years ago by a dealer. Price was $330 out the door. It's ALL labor and can be done in three hours. You're getting ripped off at $600.
 
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